Volvo S70 – Car Forums – Edmunds

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1180 of 1197 THIS IS WHY I NEED A HUSBAND 🙁 by vivicavolvo

Apr 19, 2012 (4:39 pm)

Hi Fellas!

I am really in need of some sound advice (and from a real Volvo expert and not some guy at O’Reilly’s who just wants to get in my pants. ).

Ok- I bought my 2000 Volvo S70 SE last year as a way to eliminate car payments so I could pay off my student loans for awhile. It was either buy this junk or get on a pole. And mama didn’t raise a pole dancer.

So here I am, one year later, with a car that is so tempramental I’m wondering which one of us is the real bitch here. About 6 months ago the ABS and Check Engine lights would come on every now and again, but usually, they would just come on briefly. About two months ago they just stayed on. The car started to shake pretty bad if I was stalled at a light and would kinda jerk when I gave it some gas.

I took it to my local dealership and there were a lot of signals that were coming back to them when they hooked it up to the computer, so they cleared it out so that they could identify exactly what was wrong. Two weeks later the ABS light and Check engine light came back on, and they explained that I needed a new ASB Control Module – which would cost me close to $2k. The damn car is only worth $3200.

I googled ABS Control Module and got the idea to kinda wedge a piece of plastic between it and the box next to it (I got the idea from this website http://www.carinstructions.com/volvo-s70-v70-abs-module/ ). It was running much better for about two more weeks, but now my car is really acting PMS’y.

Now, the car barely wants to start, and really whines before it decides to actually ignite. I sometimes have to push the gas to rev it up a bit. Three times it has stopped while I was driving (like from a stop position) and just died in the middle of the intersection. I have to shut it off and start it again. Today – and this is the scary part- it seemed like it didn’t want to brake when I hit the brakes and then I smelled a strong gas odor.

She sputtered and sputtered until I put her in park and once it was in park I saw the gauge on the transmission thing go from 1 to 8 — AND I WAS IN PARK WITH NO FEET ON ANY PEDALS! After I came back from my appointment, she started up fine. The trouble is, the damn car started shaking again just as I was pulling into my driveway.

I called a buddy of mine who suggested it may be a throttle body issue – but from my research – that has nothing to do with the ABS stuff.

I know it sounds like my poor little car is a piece of $#!t, but it’s mine — and she’s all I got. Until I get squared away with ole Sallie Mae, I really want to preserve her. I like my car and she looks pretty good — but as you men know — there are a lot of hot girls out here with messed up insides, and my poor Volvo is one of them.

PLEASE HELP. I just need to know what to expect or how I can do this myself. I’m a broke, recently graduated young woman and Im surrounded my incompetent men who know nothing about cars – especially Volvos.

Any ideas are appreciated!!

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#1181 of 1197 Re: THIS IS WHY I NEED A HUSBAND 🙁 [vivicavolvo] by qbrozen

Apr 20, 2012 (6:16 am)

You have 2 different problems here.

The ABS has NOTHING to do with how the car runs (quite likely, however, the shaking of the car corresponds to the ABS light because the ABS light is caused by cracks in the board of the module, which are opening up as the car shakes). And, yes, you need to replace the module. HOWEVER, you don’t need to pay $2k.

There is a gentleman who rebuilds them better than new for less than $200.

And. actually, while searching for that fellow, I came across this place. So $100 for the service. You do have to remove and mail it, but the instructions are right there on that site.

You can drive the car without the module, BTW, you will have brakes, just not antilocks, so be careful.

Your buddy is on the right track on the poor running issue. The 2000 S70 has a notoriously bad MAF sensor (just like a notoriously bad ABS module). However, it also has a poorly designed ETM, which is quite a bit more expensive.

Where did you get the car diagnosed. Was it a volvo shop? It doesn’t sound like it. Next time, you need to go to a volvo dealer or specialist.

It takes very specific and expensive software to properly read all the codes on your car.

The first thing you can try is unhooking your battery for 30 mins. During that time, also unhook your MAF. If, upon rehooking up your battery and starting the car, it runs better, then you need a new MAF.

Again, you can drive your car this way, but don’t do it for long. It will run with an improper Air-Fuel mixture, causing poor mileage and poor conditions for your plugs, O2 sensors, and catalytics.

If it doesn’t clear up, then you are very likely in need of an ETM. For a temporary fix, check out this video. And, just like the ABS module, there are places that will rebuild the ETM for far cheaper than replacing it (not to mention replacing it also requires a trip to the dealer to code the new unit to your car. so avoid that and have yours rebuilt).

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