Toyota Sera | Interesting Idea

9 Dec 2014 | Author: | Comments Off on Toyota Sera | Interesting Idea

First MOT

I took the Sera for an MOT today.  Basically I wanted to see if anything came up which would mean that ultimately the project wasn#8217;t worth pursuing due to extremely costly or things which were impossible to repair.  I wasn#8217;t expecting it to pass, but I got a few more failures than I was expecting!

RBT Service Brake Efficiency: 45% Failed

RBT Park Brake Efficiency: 0% Failed

Nearside windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively

Offside windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively

Nearside registration plate lamp not working

Offshore registration plate lamp not working

Offside front brake disc contaminated by oil

Nearside rear tyre has a bulge

Power steering component(s) leaking

Offside front wheel bearing has excessive play

Offside front wheel bearing rough when rotated

Nearside rear wheel bearing has excessive play

Offshore rear wheel bearing has excessive play

Nearside rear parking brake recording little or no effort **dangerous**

Offshore rear parking brake recording little or no effort **dangerous**

Service brake efficiency below requirements **dangerous**

Parking brake efficiency below requirements **dangerous**

And advisories:

Both front brake discs worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened

Offside rear tyre worn close to the legal limit

Both front shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing

Both rear shock absorber has slight corrosion to the casing

Fuel pipe/s corroded

Exhaust system deteriorating

The rear brakes (and parking brake) are almost certainly my fault from not doing a very good job when I replaced the brakes.  I#8217;m pretty certain I didn#8217;t adjust them correctly at all, so I#8217;ll have to take another look at these.  It is also possible that I didn#8217;t tighten things back up enough on the rear axle leading to the excessive play, so another thing to check.

Beyond that it looks like I#8217;m going to need to sort the windscreen wipers out, get some bulbs, at least one new bearing set and potentially new discs and pads.  Could be a lot worse, I suppose!

New Shoes for the Rear Drums

Given that the rear brakes were grinding when I first got the car, its been long overdue having the rear shoes replaced.  I#8217;d been putting it off because I#8217;d been told it was a tricky job.  But it turns out its not all the bad #8211; just a bit messy and definitely more fiddly than the other jobs I#8217;ve done so far.

I picked up a rear shoe set for a Paseo (Pagid A2321 ) which should fit.

 I#8217;ve tried to document this as clearly as possible so its an easy job in future and for others!

First of all, loosen the wheel lugs (so you can easily get it off when its in the air).  Then chock the front wheels so the car doesn#8217;t roll and release the hand-brake.

Jack up the rear of the car using the rear axle Remove the wheel, then use a screwdriver and a rubber mallet to pry the grease cap off Straighten the split pin with some pliers

Pull the split pin out (this can be really hard!) Remove the nut lock, nut, claw washer and wheel bearing Keep the greased parts clean and away from dirt. You can then remove the drum itself (again, requires a bit of work).

Pull the upper end of the return spring out of its hole in the front shoe Pull the return spring out of the rear shoe and remove Remove the front hold-down spring. Hold the pin at the back, then push the cap down and rotate 90 degrees #8211; this will allow it to be released.

Remove the rear hold down spring. Remove the front brake shoe Disconnect the front brake shoe from the anchor spring

Remove the anchor spring Remove the adjuster and star wheel Remove the adjusting lever spring

Remove the C-clip which retains the automatic adjusting lever Remove the automatic adjusting level and the adjuster from the rear brake shoe Pull back the spring and disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever

Remove the C-clip which retains the parking brake lever to the trailing shoe and remove the lever Attach the parking brake lever to the new brake shoe with the C-clip Attach the parking brake cable to the brake lever

Attach the automatic adjusting lever to the rear shoe with the C-clip Place the shoe in position and attach the spring Spin the star wheel to make the adjuster its smallest size, then install in to the adjusting lever

Insert the hold-down pin through the rear shoe Attach the anchor spring to the rear and front shoes Insert the hold-down pin through the front shoe

Place the return spring in position, attach to the rear shoe Ensure that the adjuster tangs fit properly in to the front and rear shoes (you may need to compress the shoes together) then fit the return spring in to the front shoe.

Now simply reinstall the wheel bearing, washer, nut (finger tight only), nut lock, split pin and grease cap.  Then reinstall the wheel and you#8217;re all done!

Fresh Radiator

I was having overheating problems with the car at speed.  Having had a quick look under the bonnet, it was clear that whilst it might not be the only problem, the radiator had certainly seen better days.

So I#8217;ve picked up a second hand radiator for an automatic Sera which is in much better condition.  The differences are fairly small #8212; the automatic radiator is thicker and the bottom hose connector is in a considerably different place.  There are also places for the oil to be cooled, but they are on a separate circuit so I don#8217;t need to worry about them (just block them off instead).

First thing to do is jack up the car, put a bowl under the radiator to catch the coolant and then open up the tap to allow the radiator to drain.  Undo the radiator cap at the top as well to help it drain.

I wanted to completely refresh the coolant, so I also undid the drain plug from the engine block.  It is located down by the oil filter and just looks like a normal bolt which isn#8217;t holding anything on.

Next, I undid the clamps holding the top of the radiator down.  They were a little rusty, so I cleaned them up with a wire brush and applied some trusty Hammerite.

The radiator then just pulls out upward, albeit with a bit of effort to get it off the rubber seats.

Whilst the radiator was out I took the opportunity to take a look at the Air Conditioning radiator.  Unfortunately this has definitely seen better days #8212; the fins are literally falling out of it.

Given that the bottom hose is in a very different location on the automatic radiator, the old bottom hose is no longer going to come anywhere near fitting.  I picked up a new 28mm black hose  which I cut to size and installed with a set of new worm drive clips.  I also replaced the clips on the top hose with the new clips.

Finally it is just a case of refilling the coolant.  I picked up some Toyota Red pre-mixed coolant from the dealership.  The system takes around 4 litres in total, so the 5 litre container is great.  Fill via the radiator filler hole at the top until it won#8217;t take any more.  Then run the engine until it warms up, squeezing the top hose to work out any air bubbles.

Top up, then put the radiator cap back on and fill the expansion tank to the correct level.

The only problem I#8217;ve yet to solve is that the new radiator is thicker than the last.  That means the clamps don#8217;t fit.  I#8217;ve managed to fashion one clamp which fits, but it means I currently have only one clamp to hold it in place.

 It seems to be doing a decent enough job for now, so it will do, but a long term solution needs to be found.

Fuel Filter

Changing the fuel filter was the next item on my to-do list.  Apart from some standard spanners and sockets, I also picked up a 14mm flare nut spanner  and, of course, a new fuel filter  (Blueprint ADT32323).

Firstly I opened the petrol filler cap to release the pressure in the fuel tank.  I then removed the air intake pipe and disconnected all the cables to the various sensors in the vicinity to ensure I had access to the fuel filter, which is attached to the firewall below all this.  I would strongly recommend taking a photo of where everything goes before disconnecting it to ensure you can put it back together again!

Using a 17mm socket, I slackened the top bolt.  At this point having a bit of a rag around it helps to catch any remaining petrol which spills out.  I then undid the bolt completely and put the top line out of the way.

At this point you need to grip the filter to stop it from rotating in order to undo the lower line.  I didn#8217;t have a 19mm spanner to hand so I used an adjustable grip instead (which was awkward #8211; I#8217;d definitely use a spanner next time).  Then slide the 14mm flare nut spanner up the bottom line until it mates with the nut and undo completely.

 Again a rag here helps to catch any excess petrol.

Once both lines were undone, its a simple case of unbolting the clamp from the firewall, then undoing the bolt to remove the old filter from the clamp.  My clamp was looking a little rusty, so I decided to take a wire brush and my trusty Hammerite to it to try to extend its life.  Also some liberal application of WD40 to the bolt helped to make it operate more freely.

Unbolt from the firewall Undo the clamp

Bit rusty Hammerite to the rescue!

Then simply install the new filter in the same orientation as the old one in the clamp #8212; the ridges on the outside of the filter mated with the indents in my clamp, so this was very straight forward.  Once reinstalled on the firewall, I did the lower line up to finger tight before taking the flare spanner to it again.  I had to just guess at the approximate torque based on how tight it was before.

Finally I reinstalled the top line, putting a fresh crush washer (supplied with the filter) below and above the line.  Again, this was done to finger tight followed by my best guess.  Then it was just a case of putting everything back together.

 Make sure to screw the fuel cap back on if you haven#8217;t already.

It is worth noting that the first engine start takes a fair while longer than usual to start as the fuel is refilling the filter and lines #8211; this had me worried at the time!  Fuel filter, done.

Oil Change

Continuing along the lines of having to give the car a full service (as I#8217;ve no idea when it was last done), today I tackled the oil change.  What I thought would be a very simple procedure took me considerably longer than expected, but almost entirely all due to inexperience.

I#8217;d picked up some 10w40 semi-synthetic oil and ordered an oil filter .  The original part number for the oil filter is either 90915-03001 for pre April 1992 models or 90915-10001 for April 1992 onwards, this one covers both of those part numbers.

In order to allow the old oil to flow out properly, I first warmed the car.  Just leaving it running idle for 15mins before turning it off again did the trick.  Next I needed to jack up the car.  To do this, I took a trolley jack and jacked up on the wishbone mount point, then put a jack stand at the jack point on the sill.

 The newspaper you can see was to try to make the jack stands a bit more shallow so that they didn#8217;t dig in to the underside of the car #8211; a bit low-tech but seemed to work.

Then I undid the oil filler cap, put a pan (washing up bowl) under the sump, which is to the left side of the car as you look at it.  The sump plug takes a 14mm spanner and was pretty easy to get off.  I#8217;d say just be careful not to doing it at an angle where hot oil would run down the spanner on to your hand/arm.

Once I#8217;d left that to drip for a while, I cleaned the sump plug itself with a j-cloth and cleaned the area where it screws back in to as well, then reinstalled it.

Next was to replace the oil filter.  It is located to the left of the exhaust manifold about half way down the engine.  I removed the oil filter using a filter removal tool  and a ratchet to loosen, then undid by hand.

 It came off easily and without any mess.  Its worth noting you have to have your arm really close to the exhaust manifold to do this, so care should be taken not to burn yourself.

I put a little oil around the rubber seal of the new filter, then screwed on by hand.  The trick here is to screw it on until you feel it start to tighten, then add another 3/4 turn (all by hand).

Finally, I lowered the car and refilled the oil with the aid of a funnel.  I put in around 2.5 litres of oil in at first, then left it for a few minutes to sink to the pan.  Then I measured where I was up to using the dip-stick.

 It was close to full, so then turned the car on again for a minute or so and checked again.  Now the oil level had gone down a little, so topped it up.  In total it looks like it takes about 3 litres.

And that#8217;s it #8212; oil change done!  One more task complete.

Spark plugs

The new set of spark plugs I ordered  arrived.  I went for the Denso K20RU11 plugs.

Based on this website. when I inspected the old plugs I reckon they look fine.  To be honest, they don#8217;t look that worn, but I was happy to replace anyway given that I have no idea of the service history of the car.

Tagged as:

Other articles of the category "Toyota":

Our partners
Follow us
Contact us
Our contacts

Born in the USSR


About this site

For all questions about advertising, please contact listed on the site.

Car Catalog with specifications, pictures, ratings, reviews and discusssions about cars