Toyota Sera | Interesting Idea

9 Dec 2014 | Author: | Comments Off on Toyota Sera | Interesting Idea

First MOT

I took the Sera for an MOT  Basically I wanted to see if anything up which would mean ultimately the project wasn#8217;t pursuing due to extremely costly or which were impossible to  I wasn#8217;t expecting it to pass, but I got a few failures than I was expecting!

RBT Brake Efficiency: 45% Failed

RBT Brake Efficiency: 0% Failed

windscreen wiper does not the windscreen effectively

Offside wiper does not clear the effectively

Nearside registration lamp not working

Offshore plate lamp not working

front brake disc by oil

Nearside rear tyre has a

Power steering component(s)

Offside front wheel has excessive play

Offside wheel bearing rough rotated

Nearside rear bearing has excessive play

rear wheel bearing has play

Nearside rear brake recording little or no **dangerous**

Offshore rear brake recording little or no **dangerous**

Service brake below requirements **dangerous**

brake efficiency below **dangerous**

And advisories:

Both brake discs worn, or scored, but not seriously weakened

rear tyre worn to the legal limit

Both shock absorber has slight to the casing

Both rear absorber has slight corrosion to the

Fuel pipe/s corroded

system deteriorating

The rear (and parking brake) are certainly my fault from not a very good job when I the brakes.  I#8217;m pretty I didn#8217;t adjust them at all, so I#8217;ll have to another look at these.  It is possible that I didn#8217;t things back up enough on the axle leading to the excessive so another thing to check.

that it looks like going to need to sort the wipers out, get some at least one new bearing set and potentially new and pads.  Could be a lot worse, I

New Shoes for the Rear Drums

that the rear brakes grinding when I first got the its been long overdue the rear shoes replaced. been putting it off because been told it was a tricky  But it turns out its not all the bad #8211; a bit messy and definitely more fiddly the other jobs I#8217;ve so far.

I picked up a rear set for a Paseo (Pagid A2321 ) should fit.

 I#8217;ve to document this as clearly as so its an easy job in future and for others!

of all, loosen the wheel (so you can easily get it off when its in the air). chock the front wheels so the car roll and release the hand-brake.

up the rear of the car using the rear Remove the wheel, then use a and a rubber mallet to pry the grease cap off the split pin with some

Pull the split pin out (this can be hard!) Remove the nut lock, claw washer and wheel Keep the greased parts and away from dirt. You can remove the drum itself requires a bit of work).

Pull the end of the return spring out of its hole in the shoe Pull the return out of the rear shoe and remove the front hold-down spring. the pin at the back, then push the cap and rotate 90 degrees #8211; will allow it to be released.

the rear hold down Remove the front brake Disconnect the front brake from the anchor spring

the anchor spring Remove the and star wheel Remove the lever spring

Remove the which retains the automatic lever Remove the automatic level and the adjuster from the brake shoe Pull the spring and disconnect the parking cable from the parking lever

Remove the C-clip which the parking brake lever to the shoe and remove the lever the parking brake lever to the new shoe with the C-clip the parking brake cable to the lever

Attach the automatic lever to the rear shoe the C-clip Place the shoe in and attach the spring Spin the wheel to make the adjuster its size, then install in to the lever

Insert the hold-down pin the rear shoe Attach the spring to the rear and front Insert the hold-down pin through the shoe

Place the return in position, attach to the rear Ensure that the adjuster fit properly in to the front and rear (you may need to compress the together) then fit the return in to the front shoe.

Now simply the wheel bearing, washer, nut tight only), nut lock, pin and grease cap.  Then the wheel and you#8217;re all done!


I was having overheating with the car at speed.  Having had a look under the bonnet, it was that whilst it might not be the problem, the radiator had certainly better days.

So I#8217;ve up a second hand radiator for an Sera which is in much condition.  The differences are small #8212; the automatic is thicker and the bottom hose is in a considerably different place. are also places for the oil to be cooled, but are on a separate circuit so I don#8217;t to worry about them block them off instead).

thing to do is jack up the car, put a under the radiator to catch the and then open up the tap to allow the to drain.  Undo the radiator cap at the top as to help it drain.

I wanted to refresh the coolant, so I also the drain plug from the block.  It is located down by the oil and just looks like a bolt which isn#8217;t anything on.

Next, I undid the clamps the top of the radiator down.  They a little rusty, so I cleaned up with a wire brush and some trusty Hammerite.

The then just pulls out albeit with a bit of effort to get it off the seats.

Whilst the radiator was out I the opportunity to take a look at the Air radiator.  Unfortunately this has seen better days the fins are literally falling out of it.

that the bottom hose is in a different location on the automatic the old bottom hose is no longer to come anywhere near  I picked up a new 28mm black  which I cut to size and installed a set of new worm drive clips.  I replaced the clips on the top hose the new clips.

Finally it is just a of refilling the coolant.  I picked up Toyota Red pre-mixed coolant the dealership.  The system around 4 litres in total, so the 5 container is great.  Fill via the filler hole at the top until it take any more.  Then run the until it warms up, squeezing the top to work out any air bubbles.

Top up, then put the cap back on and fill the expansion to the correct level.

The only I#8217;ve yet to solve is that the new is thicker than the last. means the clamps don#8217;t  I#8217;ve managed to fashion one which fits, but it means I have only one clamp to it in place.

 It seems to be doing a enough job for now, so it will do, but a term solution needs to be

Fuel Filter

Changing the filter was the next item on my list.  Apart from standard spanners and sockets, I picked up a 14mm flare nut  and, of course, a new fuel  (Blueprint ADT32323).

Firstly I opened the petrol cap to release the pressure in the fuel  I then removed the air intake and disconnected all the cables to the various in the vicinity to ensure I had access to the filter, which is attached to the below all this.  I would recommend taking a photo of everything goes before it to ensure you can put it back together

Using a 17mm socket, I the top bolt.  At this point a bit of a rag around it helps to catch any petrol which spills  I then undid the bolt and put the top line out of the way.

At this you need to grip the filter to it from rotating in order to the lower line.  I didn#8217;t a 19mm spanner to hand so I an adjustable grip instead was awkward #8211; I#8217;d use a spanner next time). slide the 14mm flare nut up the bottom line until it with the nut and undo completely.

a rag here helps to catch any petrol.

Once both were undone, its a simple of unbolting the clamp from the then undoing the bolt to the old filter from the clamp.  My was looking a little rusty, so I to take a wire brush and my Hammerite to it to try to extend its life. some liberal application of to the bolt helped to make it more freely.

Unbolt the firewall Undo the clamp

Bit Hammerite to the rescue!

Then install the new filter in the same as the old one in the clamp #8212; the ridges on the of the filter mated with the in my clamp, so this was very forward.  Once reinstalled on the I did the lower line up to finger before taking the flare to it again.  I had to just guess at the torque based on how tight it was

Finally I reinstalled the top line, a fresh crush washer with the filter) below and the line.  Again, this was to finger tight followed by my guess.  Then it was just a of putting everything back

 Make sure to screw the cap back on if you haven#8217;t already.

It is noting that the first start takes a fair longer than usual to as the fuel is refilling the filter and #8211; this had me worried at the  Fuel filter, done.


Continuing along the lines of to give the car a full service (as no idea when it was last today I tackled the oil change. I thought would be a very procedure took me considerably than expected, but almost all due to inexperience.

I#8217;d picked up 10w40 semi-synthetic oil and ordered an oil .  The original part number for the oil is either 90915-03001 for pre April models or 90915-10001 for April onwards, this one covers of those part numbers.

In to allow the old oil to flow out properly, I warmed the car.  Just it running idle for 15mins turning it off again did the trick. I needed to jack up the car.  To do I took a trolley jack and up on the wishbone mount point, put a jack stand at the jack on the sill.

 The newspaper you can see was to try to the jack stands a bit more so that they didn#8217;t dig in to the of the car #8211; a bit low-tech but seemed to

Then I undid the oil filler put a pan (washing up bowl) under the which is to the left side of the car as you at it.  The sump plug a 14mm spanner and was pretty to get off.  I#8217;d say just be not to doing it at an angle where hot oil run down the spanner on to your

Once I#8217;d left to drip for a while, I cleaned the plug itself with a and cleaned the area where it back in to as well, then it.

Next was to replace the oil filter.  It is to the left of the exhaust manifold half way down the engine.  I the oil filter using a filter tool  and a ratchet to then undid by hand.

 It off easily and without any mess. worth noting you have to your arm really close to the manifold to do this, so care be taken not to burn yourself.

I put a oil around the rubber seal of the new then screwed on by hand. trick here is to screw it on you feel it start to tighten, add another 3/4 turn (all by

Finally, I lowered the car and refilled the oil the aid of a funnel.  I put in around 2.5 litres of oil in at then left it for a few minutes to to the pan.  Then I measured I was up to using the dip-stick.

 It was close to so then turned the car on again for a or so and checked again.  Now the oil had gone down a little, so it up.  In total it looks like it about 3 litres.

And that#8217;s it oil change done!  One task complete.


The new set of spark plugs I  arrived.  I went for the Denso K20RU11

Based on this website. I inspected the old plugs I reckon look fine.  To be honest, don#8217;t look that but I was happy to replace anyway that I have no idea of the history of the car.

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