Toyota Previa –

24 Feb 2015 | Author: | Comments Off on Toyota Previa –

Where is the jack on a Toyota ?

Why is my Toyota Previa overheating?

cooling system, water failure – worst, engine block. try warming up the for about 15 minutes, then both the outlet and inlet hoses, if either one is cold, the system is either clogged up or a pump failure. If water is significantly reduced every you drive, then you have a somewhere along the system.

might people find a Previa for sale?

How do you get the fan switch out behind the trim panel of the Previa?

Replacing the fan control on a 1991 Toyota Previa. switch was replaced because the two speed settings were leaving only the lowest and settings. Years passed I finally got a replacement switch and was at how much the labor would to install it, so I decided to Do It Myself.

I am that decision. Another passed then I tried and to install it. Another year and here I am writing up the final


Grow fingers learn to cuss in 3 languages. Buy a fan switch, it comes with a cable. The switch also has two attached to it, which will lead to the cussing.

You may want to the positive terminal of the battery as you be around a lot of wires, but you don’t have to.


Philips small flat blade 2 feet of wire – wire or twist-tie or craft a hook-ended tool or large straightened with about a hook on the end. Flashlight.

The first two steps are fairly described in the Chilton manual for vehicle, the rest are not.

1) the ash tray/cup holder assembly.

the storage door under the ash remove the ash tray, and pull the cup holder. Remove the 4 screws hold the assembly: 2 of the screws are in the top the left and right ends of the cup one is in the lower right ashtray and one is hidden just behind the left corner of the trim the cigarette lighter socket. and force the assembly down, the left side first and it out diagonally.

Disconnect the cigarette plug and the lamp wire The lighter plug pulls off, the lamp plug has a you have to depress on one side, pull off. Set the assembly

2) Remove the radio/vent assembly.

Pop off the fuse box lid, the catch is under the center front depress the catch and lift the lid off. (If you didn’t already that, reconsider the decision to do job yourself.) Remove the four at the top front. The two outer screws are for the panel and the two inner ones are for the assembly. The trim panel has two gold-colored screws underneath the cupholder was removed.

Look they’re towards the front and go Be careful, the holes punched in the dash framework are not deburred and are sharp. Lift the radio/vent up and forward.

Unplug all the radio and set the assembly aside.

3) Now it gets – loosening the control

Remove the two lower screws the control assembly in place. It now be loose but still connected by wire bundles and control DO NOT remove any of the control cables, and the wire bundle you have to is the one going to the fan switch.

Pull the off all the control levers. Remove the it’s held by plastic on the sides and bottom. Remove the plastic light guide, it is by a latch on one side and a tab on the other.

the fan cable which is back and to the On my Previa this plug, and the replacement part, had thin of foam around them. plug, like most of has a small catch on one side you have to depress to pull it

You should be able to manipulate the assembly up and down a few inches and it to view the top and bottom, but it will not out.

That’s it for the easy The switch body itself is visible at this point. we go on, I have to name the two primary holes to the fan switch.

The Slot. that there is a wide in the left sidewall of this that you can reach into, just in front of the rectangular pipe opening on the left. You to do much of the switch and cable through this opening; where the long fingers come in handy.

I will to this opening as The Slot. You can through here and get to the fan switch side and connector.

The Hole in the This is the opening in the top of the control between the rear heat lever on the left and the 3 electrical on the right. Through this you can see the whitish fan switch and the right of its connector.

You can also see the wires to the two lamps.

4) the short fan switch cable.

very short cable out of the back of the switch and is clipped to the of the control assembly. Look at the part to see what this looks like. Notice the plug latch is located and it hooks on the switch body.

You to reach in through The Slot, the catch without seeing it, and out the plug. It helps to also the plug out with the screwdriver The Hole in the Top. After it is reach underneath the assembly to the cable to the right to unhook it the rear catch.

Set the cable you won’t need it if you got a replacement the fan switch.

5) Remove the two lamps.

For indecipherable reason probably to do with ease of factory the two little green lamps light up this control are wired into the fan switch. You curse this feature a lot shortly. To remove these the lower one twists clockwise and pushes in, while the upper one pushes in.

There are four catches around the outside of the lamp’s socket that you may to press in a little to free the

6) Remove the fan switch.

There is a trick here that me when I tried replacing switch on the first attempt. the Rear Heat control all the way to the left and look at the lever visible on the top of the assembly. Underneath lever arm, just the front panel and about by the arm is a tab made of the black plastic assembly housing that as a catch to keep the fan switch in

Lift this tab with the blade screwdriver and push the to the rear by pushing in on the switch’s lever from the front. The body should easily back and out of its track. Two years. Now the can be removed from the assembly by it out to the left and through The Slot. You have to wiggle it into a position to get it through The Slot, and will take some

Before you can remove it completely you to fish out those two lamps the hook tool through The in the Top. Back the switch the vent pipe to clear the arm, then remove it and set it without throwing it across the

7) Put in the new switch.

At this point a manual will say something Install the new switch in the reverse and then move on to adjusting the latch or whatnot. But there are stupid lamps to deal so I will press on. I used a of a pull wire and the hook to get them in place.

I cannot describe exactly I did, though somewhere in came most of the cussing. I describe the procedure as best I Take the 2 feet of wire and one end of it through The Hole in the Top, the place where the switch out the left side of the assembly and The Slot.

Wrap the end that through The Slot around the two wires, just behind sockets. Wrap them (3 or 4 wraps) because you are going to be them through the assembly by wire to keep them of the switch body. You can’t stuff them in there of the switch because they get all up and going in the wrong places, and you very little access to get going right.

You might be to manipulate them just the hook tool through The in the Top, but the pull wire At least it did for me, before I pulled too and it let go and I had to start again a couple

Put the switch body into the pipe, rear side in I think I had the top of the switch facing to the Put the switch arm through The Slot, on the lamp wires to keep moving ahead of the switch. the switch so it is topside up as you get it through The and into the left side of the

Keep pulling the lamp out of the way. I got one loop of wire between the switch body and the assembly frame at the bottom of the body, which I found out because it made the wires too to install the lamps. I had to unlatch the and slide it backwards to free the

You could see the stuck loop the bottom of the assembly, so keep an eye on lower opening as you install the I considered just cutting off lamp wires and living a lighted control panel, but I had the switch jiggled in through The

Get the switch lever arm through the panel opening, check lamp wires again, slide the switch forward it clicks into place, it pressed upwards so the small on the sides of the switch body in their tracks. Fish the wires along the right of the switch and down the little that leads to where mount through the panel. Be to fish the lower lamp the one that pushes and turns to in place.

Lock that lower by putting the bulb through the aligning the two little tabs, pushing from the back your fingers. Lock the in place by holding from the and pushing counter-clockwise on one of the tabs the flat screwdriver until it is rotated in place. The upper has to be fiddled with the hook to get it to poke through its hole, push it from behind until it seats properly.

was some more cussing at this step – lamp is hard to get fingers on.

Get the cable and insert the plug in the back of the assembly, clicking it the rear of the switch. I don’t the exact path the short takes from the switch and out to the left of the assembly, but you understand why not going to take it apart and Feel around the back and the cable leftwards into the clip. Then reconnect the end of the short cable to the wire

At this point you should the power if you disconnected the battery, turn on the ignition and make the fan works at all the speed settings. a sigh of relief.

8) Reassemble the assembly.

Replace the light be sure to put the tab side in first, click the other side in Click the faceplate back on all Push the control knobs on all the levers.

Make sure all the still move through all settings and all the switches perform functions. Make sure two little lamps light up you turn on the headlights. Put the assembly up where it belongs and put in the four two at the top and the two on the lower arms.

Check control again.

9) Replace the assembly.

This is a good to clean and lubricate those shutters and replace the radio a more modern one. reconnect the all radio wires and sure the radio works all the speakers. (I forgot this and did not discover the radio did not work all was reassembled. That’s when I an upgrade was called for, so I claim that I meant to everything. Yeah, that’s the Press the assembly back place and put the top 2 screws in.

Reach and replace the two lower screws. Put the top lid on the fuse box. Reprogram all the station buttons, because all the are lost when you disconnect the

10) Replace the ash tray/cup holder

Plug the cigarette lighter and plugs back in. Note the connector can go back in either Insert the assembly diagonally the left side lower. and force it back up into and put 4 screws back in place.

Put the ash back, close the cup holder, and the lower storage drawer. that everything still Celebrate.

11) Epilogue.

Repair the old fan and toss it in the junk drawer. My old failed at the connector contact, the connector casing a bit. It have arced for a while, intermittently before the contact was completely. If you just trash the old pull out the two little lamps and them, just in case one of the new burns out. Of course the old never burnt out and I’ve had van since 1991, but whatever.

time to watch How I Met Your

I’d like to take a thank this 1st fellow. he never know how helpful his were to me. I have a Haynes for Toyota Previa, which I was even more deficient in than his Chilton manual

This was one of the most difficult tasks I have ever on. Unlike his switch. Mine (at 1st) whenever I started the but as I drove down the street, the fan would change by themself. sometimes going OFF. I, at replaced the fan resistor under the only to continue having

At the time, I thought changing the was a hard task (rusty needed offset screwdivers but this was a total cakewalk to doing the switch (in the dash I consulted a mechanic at Toyota, who had a himself he was their resident on doing Previas.

He generally me how to remove the center cluster panel, but totally made of the work after that. was the REAL hard part. the wire from the rear of the was almost impossible. the switch not be removed until this was disconnected. This work was meant 4 ELVES only. with very small and VERY LONG fingers.Getting the old out was a hassle putting the new switch IN, an BIGGER hassle.

All I can say is read carefully ALL he has said the only way I from his methods. is DON’T in 3 languages (tho I did). your COOL is EVERYthing in job. it’s taken me 2 days to do this job. I was BIG in the weeds until I googled subject read this experience with all this. He me on this project I thank him for it!

I’d like to reiterate his to NOT try 2 unhook the cables to the control (it’s UNnecessary you’re to screw it up). the only that needs unhooking is to the itself (to power supply) remove the 4 inch wire from the rear of the switch! that. it is VERY SLOOOOOOOOW take your time a COOL HEAD! Losing temper will only to damage the part or the control make you feel awful to boot.

Also, be sure to ALL the tools he mentions, especially the (I used a short piece of coathanger with about a 1/4 hook on the end) and also his instructions implicitly on threading the light wires in the switch to up the panel (use a wire or string).

Good luck to remember, if he I could do it. you can do it too! go VERY slow. get it right be4 on 2 the next step!

I found an way to do this. These guys are great up to the point of pulling the itself out. Fortunately I one little blurb on another that mentioned that the air switch assembly could be to make it easier to get to the switch and the 2 lights. You have to remove the 2 on the front then the trick is you have to remove 1 screw at the right hand side of the

To do this you have to have an screwdriver of some sort. I a small ratchet with a that would hold a bit. When you remove screw you are then able to the top assembly out of the way (with the cable attached) and get much easier to the switch.

Best of luck.

code for a 1991 Toyota speaker wires?

1991 Previa Car Audio Wire Codes

Car Radio Battery 12v+ Wire: Blue/Yellow

Car Accessory Switched 12v+ Gray

Car Radio Ground Brown

Car Radio Illumination Green

Car Stereo Dimmer N/A

Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Black/Red

Car Stereo Amp Trigger N/A

Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A

Car Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4

Car Audio Front Speakers Side Panels

Left Speaker Positive Wire Pink

Left Front Negative Wire (-):

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