Subaru Svx –

31 Jan 2015 | Author: | Comments Off on Subaru Svx –

Frequently Asked Questions

can you find a new power window or even switch the circuit for a 1992 Subaru SVX?

How do you change the plugs on a Subaru SVX 3.3L

The procedure is exactly the same for ALL SVX

Take a deep breath and in, it’s a long process. need the obvious tools:* Spark Plug Socket Three-inch and six-inch extensions.* boxed end wrench (the the better). * Retrieval tool (I use the type – the magnetic works also ) is helpful you drop extensions, sockets, Pry bar for easing out the coils (a small one a slight bend on the flat end * bladed screwdriver is also a tool.

I used one to separate my from the extension so I could backing out the plugs by hand.* socket or flat wrench to your battery terminals. Remove the battery.Remove the air filter is easier if you remove the entire box with bracket. One of the bolts in the also goes through the of the ABS unit, but, if you just the bolt on that one corner, the on the air box should just slide

I saved the worst for first driver’s side). It’s in the spot. Undo the 12 mm bolt holds each coil Don’t pull it all the way out. it out until the threads begin to from the coil pack (you’ll need to pull on to pop the coil pack out).

the bolt has reached this begin to pull on the bolt. If the doesn’t pop off, keep out the bolt until it does. If you the bolt all the way out and the coil doesn’t out, then, screw the back in about half

Remember the pry bar? Take the bent end and place it on the shoulder of the then, using the engine for leverage, gently pry against the It won’t take much to pop it out.

It is very rare they come off, once the coil is out, to make sure the rubber is still on the end of the coil. If it isn’t, need to fish it out, with a very long It’ll be difficult to check one, because there’s one place you can put it to get it out of the way, and that’s to left, up in the little recess from pulling the coil. Try to sure you don’t stress the or pry against them (coils are

If you have to fish out a boot, sure you don’t damage it. The way you can replace the boot is either by someone who has one, or by buying a new With the coil pack out of the remove the access plug the fender well (Just right across from the you removed the coil – also interesting that access hole is not mentioned in the manual – the manual is sketchy about a plug

You should now be able to push you with a six-inch extension and plug socket through the in the fender well – it’s a pain, but, me, it’ll still be easier trying to do it without it (if you need to get the out of the way, just jack car up a few inches). The recess will guide your socket to the This is where normal of takes over. Just out the plug like you would

When it gets to a point it’s loose enough, the ratchet off of the extension and back it the of the way with your fingers, so you can when it’s coming Then, put in your fresh

Make sure you start the by using just your and your fingertips – you want to cross-thread the plug. the plug practically threads if you do it gently . (Note: I did not re-gap my They came factory at .040.

The recommended gap is from to .043. I figured .040 was enough for middle ground, I didn’t want to take a on damaging any of the platinum bits they look fragile) .

Once you’ve gotten the as tight as you can get it with your then, attach the ratchet and her down. Torque spec is ft.lbs. I didn’t use a torque I trusted my instincts.

If you’ve plugs before, you can feel the not too not too loose point. Now, all left is replacing the coil. you’ve taken it off, easy to figure out how to put it back on.

forget to put the access plug in – you’d hate to be water into the engine bay on days.

The rest of the plugs are Working toward the front, next is a bit of a bear, but, you can use three-inch extension and the coil is to get out of the way. Of course, the front side is the easiest.

You’ll have the most here.

Moving to the other again, the access hole make the work easier on the plug. The coil is easily out of the way.

If you’ve removed the for the air box, your job should be much a piece of cake here on out. Once gotten that first plug out, then (or is how it worked for me), your level will be up enough to the job.

Again, be careful of wiring, etc. and, DO NOT put seize compound on the plugs. a big no-no, both from and from NGK. The temperature of our makes the compound too hard.

could possibly fall the plug holes and into the – definitely not good.

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