Review: Tamiya Ferrari 360 Modena Challenge

6 May 2015 | Author: | Comments Off on Review: Tamiya Ferrari 360 Modena Challenge

Tamiya Ferrari 360 Modena

Review date: 26 February Last modified 03-Dec-2011 .

to drive a Ferrari?

Want to it yourself over the weekend?

to pick up hot chicks/guys with stylin#39; ride?

Well, two out of ain#39;t bad.

Tamiya#39;s 360 Modena Challenge is a semi-serious controlled 1/10th scale car that you build from a It#39;s fun to build, it#39;s fun to it#39;s hugely modifiable, and a heck of a lot faster and more than any K-Mart R/C toy. it#39;s 433mm long by wide by 111mm high (17 by 7.6 by 4.4 And, unlike the real it resembles, it has four wheel

If you want to know just how proper radio controlled are from toy ones, though, need a complete explanation of you get when you buy one of these things, you need to do to make it into a car, and what you can do to it to make it better.

I warn you: The may leave you filled with a urge to buy one of these things.

So begin, shall we?

In the box

Like all cars in this category, the Ferrari comes as a box of bits.

of the plastic parts are moulded the frames of sprue familiar to of static models; you clip off with side cutters as you them.

Unlike static though, R/C toys need a lot of to be pretty darn strong. And so the Tamiya mouldings are made of with quite different from the soft bendy used for the body mounts and bumper, to the super-tough fibre-filled used for the suspension arms, crunches when it#39;s

Tamiya#39;s instructions are very with few English translation none of which impede The diagrams are very clear, the are sensibly laid out, and the kit design#39;s highly optimised to it easy to put together.

If a part symmetrical, it is. If you#39;ve got a non-symmetrical the wrong way around, it won#39;t There are places where you can put a in the wrong hole, but it#39;s to do any permanent harm that

On the mechanical assembly side of building a Tamiya car is not a huge up from building a Lego

It#39;s not, however, that a little kid will be able to do.

Not because of complexity any primary-school kid that wants to this car should have no grasping what needs to be and when – but because are lots of places where screws thread into tough plastic, and you need to them suckers down.

of course, is a golden opportunity for Dad (or but it#39;s practically always to buy the kit for their child, and then rob child of the fun of building it.

Stuff need

A model car kit doesn#39;t with all of the stuff you#39;ll to run it, or even to build it.

You get a few tools in the Tamiya kit#39;s case, a hex cross wrench and a couple of keys – and you also get a of little containers of grease for various spinning things. But need to supply a Phillips-head a hobby knife (X-Acto and some sturdy scissors, at There are also some specialised tools that it to have, which I#39;ll get to in due

You also need paint, if you the car#39;s body to be anything but A couple of little spraycans, to do the paint job. I#39;ll with that in more as well, but this is an apposite to mention that Wings Things Hobbyworld here in Australia, who supplied the review will give anybody who one of these kits and mentions Data one free can of paint. spray it all in one place.

You#39;ll need some threadlock screw glue. The kit instructions say it no threadlock. This is not entirely as we#39;ll see.


The Tamiya kit also doesn#39;t with a radio. You#39;ll a standard terrestrial-frequency two-channel set to control the car.

All regular sets include a transmitter, a and a couple of standard-sized servos, and a 29MHz-band AM radio set like the Dash Saber I installed in the kit will only set you back plus the price of eight AA for the transmitter.

Most people use radios, with a side-mounted for steering and a trigger for throttle/brake, to cars. I happen to prefer radios; they#39;re also a cheaper.

It#39;s possible to an R/C car with any hobby radio but using one on R/C aircraft frequencies band, here in Australia) is a big It#39;s very impolite, not to illegal.

If you control a model car a 36MHz transmitter that has of sight to some poor plane or helicopter on the same – and they can be miles given the altitudes at which aircraft can fly – then signal can interfere with sufficiently to shoot them

Terrestrial-radio interference isn#39;t a big deal, because cars are on the and thus don#39;t have a long line of sight to interference sources. And also cars don#39;t have so far to fall, and usually aren#39;t of balsa wood.


more hidden costs? Can do. You get a battery or charger, either.

A 1.7-amp-hour six-cell nickel-cadmium pack will set you back than $AU50 and give you 15 minutes of run time on a charge; you can get packs, but lower-capacity ones less per amp-hour and are more of rapid charge/discharge cycles.

A all right automatic charger runs from a car battery (or a car battery charger . for home will cost you less $AU100, and will throw a charge into a 1.7Ah in half an hour to an hour, on the model.

You can get much cheaper and 12V-powered timer chargers, and give you a perfectly good as long as you touch the battery now and and take it off charge when getting warm. Undercharging no harm, but overcharging shortens life, and few timer chargers fully charge a modern pack with just one of their timer dial.

That#39;s it for the stuff that show on the price sticker well, not unless you#39;re an everything-included package deal, We#39;ll get to the nasty dollar at the end. Let#39;s play.

it together

Herewith, the highlights of the process.

The first thing you do is put the front and rear differentials. are planetary-gear units, conceptually the as the basic kind of differential in a car.

Tamiya aficionados are with these gear they#39;re standard equipment, in one or another, in all sorts of Tamiya including this latest chassis.

You can make basic like this somewhat by packing them with grease, but the proper solution is to to ball diffs .

Ball don’t have any gears instead, they have a of BBs held between two clamped-together plates. Adjusting the clamping gives you smoothly adjustable action, from loosey-goosey a gear diff, to a suddenly-cornering#39;s-difficult setting at the other end of the dial.

The diffs are OK, but not if you want to win races on a than perfectly smooth

Building one of these kits is if you get a pleasing sense of satisfaction constructing.

. an assembly, and then.

. more parts to it, and then.

. it up with another assembly.

. and another . as you get closer and closer to that actually looks a car.

If you like shiny Tamiya have you covered.

All of the parts are not chrome-plated cheese; steel, and they#39;re solid. You have to upgrade them if you the motor.

Behold! Bearings!

are the two types of bearing that with the kit. There are of the big 1510s (15mm outside 10mm hole), which the differentials, and the little 840s the spur gear shaft. get a bit more speed and a lot more if you upgrade the crummy plastic

. which sit in the hub carriers and support the with more bearings.

You can get ballraced belt tensioners, don#39;t make a huge of difference, and ballraced steering supports, which are even useful. OK, when the metal on the steering and the belt guides things get sloppy, and they do more friction than do But a huge difference it ain#39;t.

types may be wondering about the being used, here. In engineering parlance, a bearing is any part of a machine in which other part turns or Most of the world#39;s bearings are pieces of metal.

The crankshaft of a for instance, is supported by solid bearings at either end. It seize or wear out, there#39;s film of oil between the surfaces, and they don#39;t touch. But model car bearing are little tiny things can#39;t work that

So cheap model cars use dry bearings, also known as which are made of some material like nylon, or rather hard like bronze, which can be impregnated lubricant and so lasts longer a plastic bushing. But which wears out, in time.

expensive models use ballraced with two concentric metal with little hard trapped between them, and on either side to keep out They last much than bushings and have friction.

If you want full in this TA04, you need to add 12. If you just want wheel all you need are eight 1150s, do not have to be special expensive Tamiya-brand ones.


A-arms, adjustable upper shocks connecting central to the lower arms. Many points, many tweaks Car nuts know what talking about, everybody can just look at the pictures.

The rods for suspension and steering the turnbuckle type. Turnbuckles a left-handed thread on one end and a right-handed on the other, so you can crank the middle of the rod to the linkage length, without to remove the ends from the to which they are anchored.

rods are ordinary right-hand-all-the-way which are easier to put together in the place but can#39;t be adjusted you detach at least one end.

and damper bits.

Tamiya a habit of including friction instead of proper oil-filled in their cheaper kits. dampers are basically just a screw head sliding up and inside a rubber tube. provide more suspension than a similar volume of air, but that#39;s about all you can say in favour.

Proper suspension is one of the that makes a big difference the behaviour of proper R/C cars and the variety, which generally have bare springs if have anything at all; the has four proper oil-filled shocks. But you have, of course, to them.

The dampers are sealed these rubber caps, separate the air space in the top from the oil in the of the damper, and stop the oil from When a damper#39;s built you can compress the thing with no on it, and have nothing but internal push the shaft all the way back out when you release it.

Not that a lot of compression to be had from the dampers if you them according to the instructions; have two travel limiting around the shaft to lower the ride height. This sits a scant eight above the road, kids.

there are no travel limiters on the suspension arms, you can raise the car by fitting longer dampers. The ones will do, if you build without the limiter rings. If you to make a dual-purpose on-road and car, the simple way to do it is to buy and build set of dampers, assemble another set of with chunky-tread tyres on and swap when needed. It takes a couple of minutes.

A Ferrari looks a bit odd, of but you can also get a rally car body of which more in a moment and look the part.

The assembled suspension. Those brass joints make it trivial to shocks, and with the shocks it#39;s easy to take the off the gearboxes and get at the diffs. Nice.


As you may have noticed in of the above pics, this car a toothed belt drive

Towards the end of the chassis construction, you these belt guides to everything in line.

Belt is the most popular system for 4WD scale electric cars; cars are usually lower With some notable mind you, like the Associated TC3 and Tamiya#39;s own TB-01 and its hopped-up cousin, the TB Evolution .

drive generally beats drive for a couple of reasons. You fewer drivetrain components, for a You can do a lot of speed step-down from the topshaft to the slow-spinning axles in one with a belt, and you can deliver to the front differential without to put it through two sets of shaft-drive gears.

The TA04 twin-belt works pretty much everyone else#39;s; a little gear on the motor turns the big gear, and pulleys on the spur shaft drive belts go straight to pulleys on the front and differentials. There#39;s just the one contact point, and it#39;s off the motor, at the lowest-torque, highest-speed on the transmission.

For comparison, consider first belt-drive car, the TA03 chassis. That only got one belt. So the motor on the original TA03 models) a counter gear, which a topshaft with a pulley and gear on it; that gear the front differential, and the pulley on the drives a belt to the rear which has a gear on it that the rear differential. That#39;s gear-to-gear contact points, two of at the highest -torque points in the OK, there#39;s only one belt. But

Belts are also more than gears.

Ordinary electric motors, like the used in practically all electric R/C (brushless motors like the from Aveox are not cheap), maximum torque when stalled. So when your stuck up against something, or fouled and jammed the transmission, and you notice and just nail the a gear-drive car can easily strip one or gears.

Better R/C racing have a slipper clutch on spur gear to help this problem, and also to wheelspin. With belt though, torque overload makes the belt slip the pulley teeth. Which good for the belt, but which kill it then and there. severely worn belts can working surprisingly well.

Oh, by the you#39;re meant to use some anti-wear grease on the ends of the dogbones. This stuff is very sticky, and utterly not resemble food.

. so it#39;s a thing Tamiya put NOT EATABLE on the of the little container, eh?


The say you don#39;t need threadlock to this kit, but it#39;s wise to use it here and there. The ring around the set screw the topshaft in this picture is 242 ; any similar removable-grade anaerobic will do.

This stuff hard when it#39;s not to the air, and holds screws into metal parts in place. This is important for like this set screw and the one holds the pinion gear on, set screws …. They off, they gouge they let go. Threadlock them and well, they#39;re still not . but they#39;ll do.

There#39;s no need to use any of threadlock on the Tamiya kit where thread into plastic. And get threadlock that isn#39;t grade. Permanent threadlocks are not named.

Wheels and tyres

standard R/C kit tyres are made of rubber, for durability when Johnny zaps around on the gravel out in the street. On-road also commonly come tyres featuring some of butch-looking tread pattern, gives them a bit of grip in the

Tamiya have not provided sort of standard tyre.

have provided soft-compound gumball slicks.

OK, if you threw at a window, they#39;d bounce not stick. But they are proper racing tyres, not kid-safe

Which is not to say they#39;re not solid, you.

You may notice a certain about the inside of the above-pictured (click the image for the bigger to see it better).

That#39;s not cosmetic.

is a belted tyre, not just a lump of rubber.

It#39;s as stretchable as a leather jacket.

among you may, at this care to say phwoar.

You know who you

Wheels and wheel bits.

The round black things are the foam inserts for the tyres. The support the tyres from the and make them behave like proper pneumatic Old-style foam inserts are foam doughnuts with a cross-section, and fit imperfectly into the they#39;re an especially bad fit for liquorice ultra-low-profile tyres like the that come with TA04. The contoured inserts fill the area between and rim, and so assembling the wheels is

Once you#39;ve assembled the by the way, you ought to run a bead of cement around the rim, to the rim rotating inside the tyre things wear a bit, or you upgrade your motor. You can do a job by pulling the edge of the tyre and dabbing cement around the

And, if you do this with (superglue), you can have all the fun of sticking to each other, yourself and the while also, every now and letting the rim snap back and glue in your face.

tyres, regrettably, are small that glue-related mishaps are to be quite underwhelming. Allow me to recommend doing the same with model monster tyres, to anybody who feels just don#39;t have little dots of plastic to their body.

The TA04 Tamiya#39;s standard wheel system; a pin through the axle engages a hexagonal adapter fits into the wheel. It well enough – of course, scads of after-market exist – but it#39;s a idea to cut up some music into emergency replacement


The Tamiya Ferrari#39;s motor is as stock as they It#39;s a standard Mabuchi type, as seen in a large of the world#39;s cordless drills.

Practically all electric model use a motor with a can of the same as the 540, but there are literally of different motor types all of which can be screwed straight any car that can take a 540.

The 540 has 27 turns of wire going each segment of its armature, ferrite magnets, bushings each end of the shaft, and fairly though surprisingly durable When the brushes or bushings out, very dedicated can pry open the sealed endbell and the motor. But most people buy another one for a few bucks.

Most of the expensive motors are fully (the ones that are are made that way to stop class racers from by sneaking funkier parts apparently standard motors), and fewer turns of heavier more powerful magnets, and bigger brushes.

The stock fine for a beginner, though. who buy a better motor along their first proper R/C car a tendency to park their car a storm drain at Warp It#39;s not a bad idea to start something less grunty.

if you get a much hotter motor stock, you may zot your stock controller.

Mechanical speed (MSCs) are technologically somewhat and they#39;re also dirt to make. Which is why you still see the in practically every electric R/C including this one.

use a triple-tapped, low value, high wirewound resistor, which a wiper-arm arrangement can put in series the motor. That reduces the the motor sees, and also its speed. But considerable power is as heat by the resistor, and you can#39;t at really low speeds – you get is something like one-third two-thirds speed, and full

One-third speed is still than many little toy R/C can manage, which makes cars unsuitable as indoor

The resistor in the Tamiya kit has a 0.2 ohm resistance either end terminal and the middle or 0.4 ohms from one end to the other, is on par for these things. There#39;s a bit resistance from the skinny to and from the resistor, and from the spade lug contacts.

With the in the middle position, no power to the motor. With the wiper forward or back, the battery#39;s to the motor through the whole of the resistor. With the wiper forward or back, the motor#39;s to the battery again, but now through one or the half of the resistor, not the whole

In two-thirds mode, there#39;s resistance, the motor sees voltage, more current and the car goes faster – but the dissipates rather more twice as much heat, and only half of its windings to do it. So the two-thirds setting that#39;s meanest to the resistor.

At the full or full reverse settings, the connected directly to the motor, and the gets to cool down.

If you put a powerful motor in an R/C car, you can and destroy the resistor – power motors have impedance of their own and allow current to flow, and the resistor proportionally more heat.

If the blows, the intermediate speed do nothing at all and you end up with a binary – full on, or nothing. The contacts and the wires that go to the also can#39;t deal high currents, but various modellers have nonetheless MSCs with motors far than they#39;re meant to This can, commonly, reattaching the speed controller after over-current melts solder. It#39;s quite

The solution to this problem is to some cash on an electronic controller (ESC), which the throttle servo and MSC with a solid state unit.

regulate motor power by width modulation – pulsing full battery to the motor, but changing the ratio of to off-time depending on the throttle Good ESCs have a fast pulse rate and so hurt motors, and they let you a very fast electric R/C car slowly, if you like.

Racing have no reverse; you#39;re not to reverse in races, because likely to result in someone suffering for your poor Sport ESCs often do reverse, but it makes them expensive for a given spec Some reversible ESCs let you out reverse for racing.

A reversible ESC can handle pretty much any you can cram into a car like the Ferrari will set you back $AU260; a lower-rated one that can milder motors that a person would want to run in car is only about $AU100.

thing that ESCs can do, but controllers can#39;t, is brake.

R/C cars brake through entire transmission, by the simple of disconnecting the power from the and shorting its leads together. A motor with shorted works as a generator, and the electricity it flows in the right direction to it turn the opposite way to the way it happens to be So the faster it#39;s turning, the it suddenly wants to turn the way, and it stops in short

You can see this effect with any brush-type hobby motor; no power going to the motor, the shaft by hand, and see how long the keeps spinning. Then a paper clip across the and spin it again; it#39;ll spinning much faster.

current flows are primarily by the resistance of the link between the two terminals, and can be very high in cars. This is very to things like cheap MSC so they don#39;t have To stop a model car with a controller, you either give it throttle and let it roll to a halt, or give it some juice in the direction and spin dem wheels the way.

This, also, is bad for the controller and not totally kind to the and tyres.

But hey, drive it it#39;s stolen, folks.

controllers, including this one, also have the simplest kind of Battery Circuit (BEC) connector out of them. You plug this into your radio to power it, and the servos it drives. The BEC is a straight tap from the battery so it delivers full battery – 7.2 volts – to the

Classically, receivers and servos are to run from six volts, but they#39;re enough from significantly or less. At 7.2 volts, you get faster action, too. All current receivers can work with a

If you don#39;t use the BEC, you can use four AA in a little holder, or four or rechargeables, to power the receiver. doesn#39;t give you significantly run times, because the receiver much less power the motor, but there#39;s a reason to do it; it you keep radio control when your drive too flat to run the receiver.

Remember, keep working when battery#39;s too flat to power the So if the throttle#39;s open, and the battery#39;s enough that you can#39;t the receiver to centre the throttle and stop the car, the speed wiper will just sit in the full-power position. Then, the of the battery power will to propel the car, and it#39;ll steering however it was steering the receiver conked out. that means it#39;ll be towards a wall, tree, drop, lake or major

Anything that puts the control wiper in a given will result in the same as if you#39;d pushed the throttle far, which means MSC-ed cars can and do scream off at the of heat in response to all sorts of stimuli. It is wise to physically the battery whenever you don#39;t the car to be armed.

R/C gas cars – almost all actually run from a mixture – use a servo for control as well, and can thus from much the same as MSC-ed electrics. But gas cars a dedicated battery pack for the and they can#39;t go anywhere if you actually started the engine. An car with an MSC and the battery connected even need a receiver in it; the MSC wiper and the car, she goes.

A Tamiya servo saver, onto the steering servo.

savers are springy things limit the torque the steering can be subjected to when your driving puts the car into the bashing the steering hard a servo that#39;s pushing the way. Without a servo doing this can butcher servo gears. With you#39;re pretty safe.

The plastic saver#39;s OK. If you don#39;t to break it, there#39;s little to upgrade. If you#39;ve installed hyper-torque metal gear that can lift a professional off the ground, a super-stiff servo (or just a solid arm) may you somewhat better steering. though, there#39;s not much in it.

The change I made to the standard was to swap the Tamiya battery for higher-rated Anderson Power Powerpole connectors, because are what I use on my battery packs.

A lot of refer to Anderson connectors by other name – Sermos, but also various brand names. They#39;re all made by Anderson, but the Sermos have thicker silver on the copper contacts and tougher for the housings.

Low loss connectors a difference for R/C applications. When 0.2 of in-line resistance from a speed controller gives you mode, the resistance of a cheap battery connector can slow you too.

Stock cheap have enough resistance people who use them with motors occasionally find battery plug welded one lump. So if you don#39;t know how to now is a good time to learn or to get the special crimping tool you#39;re supposed to use to attach connectors. Or your friendly model shop can, of upgrade connectors for you.

the chassis

The flexible body posts, with many that let you mount bodies of shapes, at whatever height you

For scale looks, you should the posts so only as much as you is left, but if you want body you can leave them long and

The foam front bumper. matters. Trust me.

Most R/C come with more bits than you need, so you have to worry if you lose a of fasteners and such. This is sensible; body clips rotate into unreachable during races, and E-clips are at popping off the shaft they#39;re to stay on and flying away at a metres per second. They to gain energy every they bounce off something. If we only harness this power source.

All done.

not all done, really. You#39;ve got to do the body. Which can take as long as building the whole of the of the car, or which can take no at all, depending on how lazy you are and how ugliness you can stand.

On with the


Like all serious R/C the Ferrari#39;s body is a shell of super-tough polycarbonate – the often known by the General trademark for it, Lexan. Polycarbonate#39;s tough stuff, and essentially the whole top side of an R/C car one big bouncy

These quick-change polycarbonate make it easy to turn Ferrari into a Lamborghini, or an or a Holden Commodore for that you just need to find body with much the width and wheelbase, and for 10th cars there are umpteen

Tamiya themselves offer a of bodies to suit the TA-04; you can get Skyline GT-R, Honda Mercedes CLK-GTR and Ford WRC bodies, and the first three in several different-liveried variants.

The comes fresh from the forming machine, with a big flange around the base and the wells filled in. You have to cut it out you can paint it.

Cutting out bodies is the least fun part of putting this sort of model, if you ask me. If all you are ordinary straight scissors, practically impossible to get the wheel right. Some bodies with pre-stamped wheel arches; this one doesn#39;t.

You can get this problem by buying curved body-cutting scissors the same place that you the model, or you can go really upmarket and use a (or similar high speed rotary tool) with a drum attachment.

Cut all of the straight or curved lines with hog out most of the wheel well with ugly straight then use the Dremel at low speed to the last of the plastic out, to the cutting line.

It#39;s just as possible to up a body with a Dremel as it is straight scissors, of course, but properly it gives you a lovely faster. And covers you with dust, too, which has to be a

If you do foul up the body and gash the wells or blindly overcut else, it won#39;t make any to the performance of the car. If you want a body, buy another one; the messed-up one clear or just it one solid colour with no and use it as your bash-around body.

The trimmed and washed and drying before I mask and paint it.

You out the inside of the body to remove release gunk, fingerprints and so on, and the paint stick. Because you these bodies on the inside. way, battle damage flake the paint.

The special you use, which costs than $AU10 per tiny spraycan, bonds with and is flexible, too. It#39;s how much abuse it can stand.

You the body with several coats, so the paint doesn#39;t And it may be a small spray can, but still a spray can, so do painting somewhere well-ventilated, OK?

Of to stop the mosquitoes from in, I kept the door of the workshop while I painted. But I#39;m as my friend Isaac Asimov will confirm. As soon as he playing with the sasquatch.

You have to worry about on the outside of the body, because covered with a peel-off film to protect it. But if you don#39;t the whole body one colour if, for instance, you want the windows to be the smoke colour with de red bodywork – you need to the windows before you paint.

The kit with masking stickers for the areas; you cut out the stickers and carefully them to the inside of the body.

while doing this, you and restick the masks a few times, and then seriously consider doing the whole body one and having done with it.

the window areas and the rear area are masked, you apply the then peel off the stickers and do the colour.

The red paint coats,

Incidentally, if you cut open a used-up paint can, you can salvage it two perfectly serviceable glass

When you#39;re building cars at four in the morning, you to learn these sorts of

The window masks are much to remove than they are to on.

. and they reveal beautifully windows, ready for a few coats of And then the painting#39;s done.

colours are purely advisory, of if you want a green Ferrari purple flames down the and a pink tongue sticking out of the air you can have one. And you can leave the unpainted, to show off the works, or you can them jet black, or any other you like.

The standard window purpose, besides making the look more scale, is to the decidedly non-scale details of the with a tasteful frosted-glass

Now you can peel off the protective vinyl, a gleaming showroom shine no paint splatter.

Time to on to the detailing.

Decals, decals,

Tamiya#39;s less sporty are famous for super-scale detail, lots of plastic add-ons for the or a whole moulded polystyrene for that matter.

That of stuff is just dumb for a car. You#39;ll knock off mirrors and windscreen wipers and so on in the five crashes. Which is why car#39;s body detailing is all decals.

Decals are, I part of a plot to make the modellers more manually on the average, by driving the clumsy to ….

You cut the self-adhesive decals out the sheet they come on a hobby knife, you stick where the instructions say they go, you get misaligned, the corners fail to after moving the decal window-frames that are meant to each other don#39;t, et

You can make decalling somewhat fraught by mixing up a few drops of liquid in a few cups of water and the result liberally all over the where the decal goes, and all the sticky side of the decal That lets you float the around until you#39;ve got it you want it to be, whereupon you push it to actually touch the body. it out from the middle so there are no and dry it with a hair dryer or, very carefully, with a heat gun. Heat you more easily stretch over curved bodywork,

After doing about a more decals, you#39;re

Corners that don#39;t will cause the whole to peel off in short order if the body#39;s used for anything but You can tack the corners down a tiny dot of glue (flexible adhesive is good, cyanoacrylate is applied with a toothpick.

I out on the decals, and only attached the scale-detail ones – badges, grilles and so on. I justify laziness on the grounds that the of this vehicle is, in my opinion, enough that he doesn#39;t to advertise the makers of go-fast on his car in order to afford it, and bright that he doesn#39;t need big 360 on his car to remind him what it is.

I left off the scale decals you can put on the wheels but I did stick on the tiny side indicators and Pininfarina badges.

decals, of course, absolutely be there, if you bother with any at The Prancing Horse has been proven to let you cut through traffic in more easily than an so it#39;s clearly a genuine talisman.

Der ving

The real Challenge doesn#39;t have a wing, but the Tamiya version with one which you can install if you

Wings on model cars can make a difference to the handling, and is a perfectly good one – from thicker polycarbonate the body, with a pair of struts that let you pick a or low angle, and O-ring buffered mounts that make less likely in crashes, and let you add and remove the wing without

Very butch.

The wing#39;s a bit red than the rest of the car because of the effect of the smoke undercoat, didn#39;t get sprayed on the wing. not a big difference, though, and you could undercoat the wing as well, if you

If you don#39;t want to use the wing, are two blank red decals provided, to the mounting holes and make the car right.

And that, boys and is it for putting the car together. Charge put body on chassis, hit the track.


With a weedy Mabuchi 540 it along, pretty much any 4WD R/C car will be easy enough to You#39;ll have enough to break traction all over the if you nail full power and steering in reverse – diffs help here, their high slip the inside wheels unload but in normal driving it#39;ll go you point it and, on a grippy you#39;ll barely even to slow down for corners.

F1 cars, with their direct drive RWD transmissions and no suspension, go darn fast just a 540. 4WD cars a lot more transmission drag, compliant suspension and narrower so they can#39;t help but be and sloppier than the F1s on a … track.

On anything at all bumpy, the F1s swap ends at random just like the real 4WDs don#39;t.

In stock the low-slung TA04 handled as as any similar car with the same I#39;ve seen. Tamiya#39;s dampers, unlike pretty everyone else#39;s plastic work well when new and working well, too; the sure-footed on carpet, concrete or

If you#39;re going to bash the car remove at least the smaller limiter from the shocks perhaps, mount the body one higher; that#39;ll reduce the factor and stop you from hung up on minor bumps and

If you want to race, though, the setup#39;s a fine starting

Drive the Ferrari into or sand and it#39;ll bog as instantly as the thing; that#39;s not where meant to be. There are R/C trucks, if you to go garden-bashing.

Anywhere flat preferably, clean, this car can eat for

Time for some sticker


Adding up all of the hidden – radio, battery, et cetera – a novice that doesn#39;t have any of stuff already will be up for $AU250 on top of the price of this Which ain#39;t cheap.

The price, in fact, is the Tamiya chief problem. It#39;s got a basic spec level, but it $AU553 – or $US250, ex from the discount mail places. Australians are advised not to buy bulky boxes from as you don#39;t end up saving much and hobby shops won#39;t to know you if you have a problem, you probably will.

The real Challenge is a race-tweaked version of the 360 Modena. Even the standard will set back an Australian some $AU340,000, assuming the judges you worthy of the vehicle.

So, by the Tamiya#39;s free.

At $AU553, there#39;s some stiff from other similar Including, oddly, another one in the line.

The TA04 Pro chassis-only kit page for which is here ) much more expensive the Ferrari version. The Pro edition less than $AU575 and come with a motor, controller or body, but that#39;s OK; aimed at racers.

Racers like using fancy bodies, which sell for $AU80 by themselves, when can pay half as much for a less but perfectly good American-made which they won#39;t so guilty about thrashing and all over the place. And racers have no interest whatsoever in Mabuchi motors or mechanical controllers.

Stuff racers do though, the TA04 Pro has, in An aramid fibre drive ball diffs front and three spur gears of sizes, full bearings, and rear anti-roll bars, and a rigid chassis plate as All of this stuff you can get as options for the version of the TA04, but it#39;ll you.

There are a few similarly cars a bit below the TA04#39;s point. The excellent HPI RS4 Pro 2. for instance, is the sort of chassis-only, ready-upgraded as the TA04 Pro, and can be had for well $AU500. It#39;s older the TA04, but it#39;s got carbon ball-raced anodised aluminium

The price difference isn#39;t though, and you can get Tamiya parts much everywhere . In Australia, the USA and other countries that television shows, it#39;s easy enough to get parts for other popular brands HPI. But people in other may be safer sticking with

If I were buying one of these though, it#39;d be either the RS4 Pro 2 or the Pro, not the Ferrari. I don#39;t about getting a pretty I don#39;t want an MSC or Mabuchi and bushings – any bushings offend me. Your mileage may


Given the price, car isn#39;t a great choice for a who doesn#39;t intend to do any racing. are any number of bash-around on- and off-road including for instance various based on the simple shaft-drive chassis, which look as as this car and cost a lot less. And can be hopped up into half-way racers, too.

If you#39;ve got the though, and you want the fun of building a looking toy that goes, and turns startlingly well in stock form, check sucker out. I like it.

from Australia or New Zealand can all kinds of R/C toys, including the TA04 Ferrari, from #39;N#39; Things Hobbyworld .

(if NOT from Australia or New Zealand, probably not going to like the costs. )

If you mention Dan#39;s when you buy a Tamiya Ferrari a Wings #39;N#39; Things here in Sydney, Australia, give you a free can of polycarbonate to go with it!

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