Mazda 323 – Car Forums – Edmunds

4 Jan 2015 | Author: | Comments Off on Mazda 323 – Car Forums – Edmunds
Mazda 323

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115 of 455 Re: 89 Mazda 323 won’t run at operating temp [dhskelton] by mjmuir

Nov 25, 2005 (5:23 pm)

Hi Dave

Run the car in the driveway. Once it’s up to operating temperature, wait until it dies. Disconnect the high tension wire from the distributor cap and hold it near a grounding point (such as one of the bolt heads of the air filter box.

Have someone sit in the car and crank the engine over to see if you get a spark between the wire and the ground point. It should be a healthy spark. If it is weak, I would consider replacing the ignition wires, cap and rotor. Also check the gap between the pick up and inductor wheel. Although no spec is given in the manual, it should be around 0.007.

Use BRASS thickness (feeler) gauges to check thsi gap; steel may damage teh components.

Interestingly enough, I have a similar problem, except that I’m getting an intermittant igniton miss when the engine is hot. I first thought it was a fuel problem too, but after checking fuel pressure, I’m back to igniton troubleshooting.

It has also been suggested throguh the Mazda Club (www.maxdaclub.com based out of Illinois)that the thermosensor (located on the intake manifold between #3 and #4 cyclinders, connected with a two-pin green plug) may be the culprit; try disconnecting it and see if the car will run when hot.

As far as an igniton module goes, I assume you are referring to the unit inside the distributor. Try your local auto wrecker for a spare distributor, might be an inexpensive alternative to new.

One last thing you could check is the coil. The primary coil should be 0 ohms; the secondardy coil should be 6k to 30k ohms.

Cheers

Malcolm

Replies to this message:

#116 of 455 Re: FUEL TANK DIAGRAM – FUEL TANK HELP [sonixboom] by mjmuir

Nov 25, 2005 (6:48 pm)

You can gain access to the fuel sender pump assembly by removing the rear seat cushion (push the eladign edge of seat with your knee near the end on each side and lift up).

There is metal plate approximately 7 X 7 (175 mm X 175mm) which can be remove once the screws are taken out. Thsi gives you access to the top of the tank. On the end of the fuel pick-up is a filter which may be partly blocked.

You can also check the fuel sender for correct operation; using a multimeter on resistance setting, the sender should read 7 ohms at full, 32.5 ohms at 1/2 fuel and 95 ohms at empty.

You may have to repalce teh fuel pump and in-tank fuel filter assembly (approximately $300.00 CDN from an after-market parts store).

In the meantime, you can zero the trip odometer and make note of the miles (or kms) on the trip odo when my Low Fuel light comes on (or if base model at an indicated 1/4 tank). You can then at least monitor when you need to fill up prior to running into this problem.

Cheers

Malcolm

#117 of 455 Re: 323 lifespan [skib] by mjmuir

Nov 25, 2005 (7:01 pm)

Good questions. I bought a base 1989 4-speed with 176k km on the odo, ran great, economical, reliable, then startign burign a lot of oil. i rebuld the head at 245 k km, checked the bottom end and it was exceptional, smoot bores, no ring lands or scoring. Ran it another 30 k km and got another 1989 by at DX with 5 speed, sun roof, cloth interior, power steering, etc with broken crankshaft nose.

Swapped engine from 4 speed car into 5 speed car and ahve put another 10k km on engine.

I have heard that Mazda run tighter clearances than other Japanese cars, so i started using 5W-30 oil after teh head rebuld.

I never had problems with the higher milage car, but DX had 195k km on clock and am now experiencing ignition problems at 210k km. Most of what I’ve read on these forums is that electrical and/or fuel gremlims are common on higher milage cars.

Mazda 323

I think the longevity is part tied to vehicle usage and maintenance. I don’t believe there’s much difference between auto vs. manual transmissions so I’d go for the car with the lower kms, but so try to get service history from the owner.

Cheers

Malcolm

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#118 of 455 Re: Mazda 323–Do I need a new clutch? [johnbigboote] by mjmuir

Nov 25, 2005 (7:12 pm)

I replaced my orignal factroy clutch on my 1989 323 with 275k km although it still wasn’t completely worn out.

Slipping in 4th or 5th is a definite sign that the clutch should be replaced. Driving this way will ultimately damage the flywheel which will drive the repair costs even higher.

You could do the job yoruself, but be prepared to spend a full day on with a buddy to get it done assumign you ahve all the right tools. A transmission shop will charge you around $500.00 to $600.00.

As the car uses a cable clutch release, the free-play adjustment should be checked annually. If the clutch is pre-loaded due to incorrect cable tension, it will lead to premature wear.

Cheers

Malcolm

#119 of 455 Re: 323 lifespan [mjmuir] by dhskelton

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