K-Jet.org | Tips for Improving Your Volvo 240

17 Dec 2014 | Author: | Comments Off on K-Jet.org | Tips for Improving Your Volvo 240

1. EXTERIOR

Many of the early came without an airdam, and to me look a bit …. An airdam improve not only the looks, but the aerodynamic and fuel efficiency of the as it lets less air underneath the which is an area with drag.

There are two main of airdams: the ones for aluminum and the ones for plastic bumpers. GT#8217;s came with a kind of airdam, which is vertical, and deeper then the This GT airdam fits the bumpers.

Some cars plastic bumpers have sort of skirt under the which is not really deep to be called an airdam #8211; I this can be removed and replaced a proper airdam. #8217;86 and cars have a different bumper, and usually have as standard. The airdams for the post-86 bumpers should fit the earlier of plastic bumper.

Some (I#8217;ve seen it on turbos, also have a plastic that directs the air from the on the airdam up to the radiator. In hot climates can be pretty useful.

I also saw a GT fitted with a shroud connects the bottom of the panel the bumper (and under the to the bottom of the radiator. Basically it the low-pressure area behind the (for reduced drag on the of the car and reduced front end lift) the high-pressure area in front of the Of course the GT airdam has no ventholes in the like the later airdams, the later panel that air up to the radiator.

When adding an to an aluminum bumper, you will to drill some holes in the I think that plastic already have the holes. The for the shroud should already be in the (maybe only #8217;79 and

One caveat: Volvo warns an airdam should be used on cars with alloy or #8217;80 and newer steel (these have larger for ventilation).

Some #8217;78-#8217;80 has quad round sealed-beam while most �81-�85 had quad rectangular headlights. cars had large rectangular (till #8217;80, as the fenders and changed in #8217;81 there to the US got only in #8217;86). All these are totally interchangeable, so if you like one than your current just get the parts and a wrench, and in an you#8217;ll have a different car.

One has to be careful if swapping in lights (even if drop-in for sealed-beams), as the electrical connectors the same and will mate up, but the wiring is different (if I recall only the quad-square sealed are different #8211; an adaptor is at light suppliers, but it is preferable to your connectors).

Many prefer the European standard (E-code). The large rectangular are pretty hard to come by in the US, but one can H4 lights that are a drop-in for either rectangular or round beams ($50-60 each). The is that not all H4#8242;s are the same buy something from a reputable such as Hella, Cibie or

On my #8217;80 245, I went the large rectangular Euro back to the quad round so I can fit some Cibie CSR#8217;s these use the latest in lighting and are a drop-in replacement for the small sealed beams. See Dan Stern#8217;s for more details.

For #8217;75-#8217;80 with the dual-round headlight I highly recommend replacing the beams with quality H4 I had Hella H4#8242;s (about $55 with 80/100W bulbs for the beams, and they are incredible in to the sealed beams. If you use such wattage bulbs, especially in an car, it is advisable to put a relay the system so that not all the juice thru your headlight

VClassics has a good article by OJ on lighting here. For all kinds of lighting info, check out Dan site. For a more detailed of headlight options on 240#8242;s, out Evan#8217;s Lighting Page .

For and later cars, the choices are The best is to just replace the setup with E-code but this can be spendy, especially if one for the better quality Volvo instead of the aftermarket. One caveat is the turn signal/park lamp have to be changed as well.

If you are on a low and the lense have become and yellow, lately some have started selling the only for the US-spec headlights.

more involved possibility is to put the quad-round setup with in place of the large headlights. See page for a very well conversion.

Up to #8217;79 most had mirrors that are not adjustable the inside. It is easy to upgrade cars to the #8217;80-#8217;85 style although even these can be to adjust precisely #8211; the mirrors are much easier to (see below for tips on upgrade). The old mirrors are held an allen screw behind the triangular trim.

You will new triangular trim with in them for the new mirrors (conversely, who want to delete the passenger to save weight need the without a hole). The new mirrors are with a philips screw in the of the adjusting knob. When the newer style mirror a junk car, watch for the spring and other pieces might fall. Some came with no right-side I recommend retrofitting one.

I also stuck a small mirror on both sidemirrors this way I don#8217;t have to around before changing

Some cars did not come a passenger-side mirror, but one can easily be by removing the blank trim and outside, and following the steps to add a mirror.

Another possibility is to to the #8217;86-#8217;93 mirrors. Most of are manual, but they were available as power operated in the last few years of production. I done this type of but I hear that a hole to be drilled in some older and another needs to be enlarged.

removing and installing these is straightforward once you realize you have to pull the boot off the lever to reveal the screws.

One of the of these mirrors is the passenger one is convex. If you desire a convex one for the side, get one from some where they have cars. Also, in Europe and all other later model were available as mostly but the outer 20% convex.

This is an way to reduce the blindspot, and I#8217;m it is illegal in the US, as the government must people are too stupid to deal such abstraction. Our Volvo 460 is so in Hungary and it works great!

A mirror upgrade would be power mirrors. In the USA these on the Turbos (#8217;81-#8217;85) and GLE#8217;s to #8217;83?). The motor is prone to so try them out before you buy junkyard The original switches sit on the parking console, but can be installed anywhere, on the center console.

If you pull of the wiring from a junker, wiring shouldn#8217;t be too much of a The system uses no relays.

If you a #8217;90 or earlier 240, and you to replace your windshield, ask the shop to install a #8217;91-#8217;93 windshield. It will actually be for them. If the shop is hesitant, are probably not very sure what they are doing.

I around until I found a that was willing to do it #8211; were actually very to learn that this

The earlier windshields have the held by plastic clips have to be inserted between the and the body when the windshield is With time these break, and the molding becomes in places. The newer type just has a flat plastic that is better looking, is with the body, and therefore less windnoise.

2. SUSPENSION

I want to provide a quick of 240 wheels, and some others will fit. Basically, all 740 and most �70 and newer wheels should theoretically although there might be with the brake caliper not

Most 240#8242;s came 14#8243; steel wheels. had a one-piece chrome hubcap covered the lugnuts. #8217;80-#8217;85#8242;s had a but two-piece chrome hubcap, black or chrome centers. there was a pretty ugly cover that covered the whole wheel, with a lot of on the outside rim. The later had a nice one-piece plastic

As far as alloys, there were two of optional 5-spoke 14#215;5.5#8243; wheel available for the early (GLE#8217;s?) and Bertones that is rare nowadays.

#8217;78-#8217;79 had a 14#215;5.5#8243; alloy with fins on the outer edge. are nice-looking, but they are useless to the enthusiast due to their small

#8217;80 GT#8217;s and all GLT#8217;s and had the 5-spoke 15#215;6#8243; alloy Volvo calls #8220;Virgo#8221;. good looking wheel in my (I have had several sets on cars, you can see them on my old GT ), and quite too. These are the wheels for the enthusiast on a budget.

A set can be picked up for $200-300, or much less DIY junkyards. Original tire was 195/60R15, common upgrade are 205/60R15, 205/55R15, or 215/55R15.

in the late 70#8242;s started the 25-spoke 14#8243; alloys. wheels are pretty hard to tend to loose their and are pretty ugly in my opinion.

Resnier has a very good wheel page with of various Volvo 200 and 700 wheels, as as some part numbers.

240 (aka 245�s) have rear springs than They can easily be retrofitted sedans by removing the shock which will let the trailing arm Once the 17-mm nut that the spring to the trailing arm is undone, the can be removed. Wagon springs help when carrying loads or towing with a

It can also improve handling a correct swaybar/spring setup. they should not be a solution for a rear end #8211; that is caused by deteriorating trailing arm not weak springs.

It is a lot harder to obtain stiffer springs. Only some 242 had these: to the best of my knowledge, #8217;78#8242;s and all #8217;79 had them, but no My #8217;78 GT does not have Diesels had longer front to carry the heavier engine.

springs will make the of a non-diesel car sit abnormally high not good unless you are going

Many of the less sporty 240 came with very swaybars, which allow a lot of in corners (common setups 19-21 mm front bars and mm rear bars). This not decreases driver confidence, but it disturb the tire#8217;s contact as the tire is tilted from the along with the whole In addition, wagons came a very thin (14 mm) rear (or no swaybar at all in the first few years), as the rear springs already additional roll stiffness.

In adding roll stiffness stiffer springs or swaybars) to the will bring handling to oversteer, while adding stiffness to the front will it closer to understeer. The stiffness of a increases with the 4th power of so even a small increase in should bring noticeable The handling balance can also be by changing the tire pressures in the and rear tires in comparison to other.

Adding the swaybars of a sedan is an economical way of upgrading any These are 23 mm in the front and 21 mm in the back. setup is still safely toward understeer.

If the car is a sedan, the stiffer wagon springs bring the balance closer to

The only rear swaybar on US-spec cars that is than the Turbo ones are the found on #8217;79 GT#8217;s, were 23 mm thick. These also had stiffer front which allowed the use of a moderate, 21 mm swaybar. This #8217;79 GT is said to be the best-handling factory

IPD manufactures some after-market for all models of Volvos, 240#8242;s Both of their 240 setups a 25 mm front bar, one with a 22 mm bar and one with a 25 mm rear bar. I recommend the less aggressive to most, except for the very drivers and occasional racers.

I the 25/25 setup on my #8217;78 GT, and it inducing power oversteer is and fun, in tight, fast the car lifts its inside rear loosing traction. This be cured with a limited differential, but it is easier to fit a softer bar and springs.

These braces standard on some #8217;78 and all GT#8217;s in the US. However, all #8217;79 and cars have the appropriate in the firewall, so installation is a snap. IPD sells them for about $50 for the while Mike Jordan in Atlanta has them for about

There were also strut braces fitted to cars, and my #8217;78 GT is so equipped. braces connect the rear mount to the crossmember, right the front pivot for the a-arm. should be really easy to as it#8217;s just a piece of tubing flattened at the two ends.

need to be drilled in the car,

3. ENGINE

I will just a very quick overview of mods:

The easiest engine is to change your camshaft: in the US are high-performance ones available IPD or from Canadian junkyards. The IPD cam has the advantage of being emissions while the K and H cams from the motors sold in Canada for a few will not yield acceptable emissions (although they yield more power). All of these cams while power will transfer the band further up the engine#8217;s range.

One way to counter this is to an adjustable or offset cam gear. IPD an adjustable one, but I keep at the maximum advanced setting all the (6 degrees, I think), so for most it#8217;d be cheaper to just get a gear with holes by 6 degrees. I#8217;ve seen for sale, but I#8217;m not sure

The two other ways to increase performance is to increase the displacement the compression ratio (CR). If you a 240 with a B21F (#8217;76-82.5), putting in a B23F block an #8217;82.5-#8217;84 will give you a lot of oomph, especially if coupled a performance cam. B23F#8217;s in two variety: the ones fitted to cars had a 10.3 CR, while had a 9.8.

Fortunately, these CR#8217;s (B21F#8217;s had 8.5) achieved with different while the combustion chamber is the same on B21F#8217;s and B23F#8217;s. means that one can just a B23 block in a B21F-equipped car, and bolt the original cylinder to it. I have done that two cars already.

To use the B23#8242;s one would have to convert to the injection used with heads, as they don#8217;t the holes required for the K-Jetronic of the B21F#8217;s. Note that a car 10.3 CR will require gas.

4. INTERIOR

Parts needed: the window with the motors, wiring relay, armrests with or console switches, doorpanel for the switches or plug to plug up the where the window winder to be.

The regulators with the motors just bolt in place of the manual regulators. I highly taking the whole wiring a donor car. If the switches are in the dash, then the armrest not to be changed, but it might be hard to the switches for the center console.

The window armrest use an additional point, but a new doorpanel is not necessarily One can just cut a hole in the existing and drill a hole in the door for the new screw.

The biggest challenge be to get all the wiring through the rubber connecting the doors to the body. It is impossible with the earlier boot, which also to smaller holes than the setup.

A quick note for power and manual windows: the interior door window gears is a good idea few years. Tighten the screws hold the regulator in place: tend to work their way A bit of removable thread lock be a good idea.

Parts two switches: on driver�s door cylinder and lock button; 3-4 (actuators, lock motors: have many names) appropriate linkages to the buttons, with two relays. For the original setup, no solenoid is needed in the door. To install a remote system, though, a fourth for the driver#8217;s door is needed.

The system is activated by either of two one on the stem of the driver#8217;s door#8217;s button, and one on the lock cylinder. It is to retrofit either or both of switches to the passenger door, so the power locks can be operated that door, too.

As the best course of action is to the setup from a donor car with all the wiring #8211; a lot of labor if the wiring only has to be put in instead of thought out from the up.

This feature will on the 79-85(?) trunk style. The for the little motor should be in all trunk lids of this The motor just bolts in, and to the lock linkage.

It has a 2-wire One gets constant voltage tap it from the trunk light#8217;s and the other gets voltage when the button in the glovebox is Therefore, you have to run a wire the fusebox to the button, and then the button back to the trunk In my GL, there was an antenna cable to the trunk, with an additional attached to it.

This serves the antenna, but that was not fitted to car, so I used the extra to carry the signal to the trunk.

To the button, the glovebox needs to be Cars without this have a blank covering the for the switch. Some cars this feature also a nice pictogram depicting the of the button, don#8217;t forget to it with the button!

Up to the early most 240#8242;s came a steering wheel big enough for a boat, while GT#8217;s, later GL#8217;s, and all the later (#8217;86 and later?) had a smaller, more sporty-sized wheel. I all my cars to the smaller wheel, as the power steering, the large is hardly needed. The only downside is that it might some of the instruments for people of stature.

To change the steering you will need a large deep socket. Just the center trim, and you should be to put the socket in with an extension. sure that the steering is exactly straight before you it, and that you don#8217;t turn the while you remove it.

Then refit the new wheel in the same

These are available both for the (75-85) and the later style In fact the cushions from fit the later style 240 headrests fine. These cushions the headrests a lot more comfortable resting your head, and also make a difference a rear-end impact, as the headrests are pretty hard and a bit too far back.

I know of any easy sources for the style cushions, I see only the ones in the junkyards, but they do up on the internet from time to Some dealers might have some remaining the part number on the blue I got is 1313868-0.

Both sedans and can be retrofitted with this safety feature, but both are in junkyard, the wagon ones so.

For a sedan, once you have the it is very easy to add them, as all the are already in place. They sit on the behind the seat, and the legs down into the trunk, to the seatback beams. The only that need to be drilled is in the cover.

The metal beams the shelf and the beams behind the also have the holes for the legs.

As far as installing wagon rear there was a Rolling article in the 1989 issue written by Alan Crossner, Ph.D it. Here#8217;s my understanding of the procedure:

a set of 4#8243; guide bushings 1395416-9).

Examine the top of the rear and drill a small exploratory There is a metal frame an upside-down flat #8220;U#8221; that runs along the top of the there are no obstacles to the installation of the bushings. After cutting small holes in the vinyl fabric, drill four positioned 0.7#8243; holes a metal-cutting hole-cutter).

Then the guide bushings.

Now you can slip on the headrests of an #8217;89 or later However, the new headrests are expensive, $121.38 (10/89 price) ( # 3513407-1 for the beige variant). The are $45.15 (part #3521508-6 for the

After reading the above, I had the to dissect a seatback with the and based on what I saw, I advise against installing into a seatback that without them. The setback headrests has two metal channels the legs slide into. If the car is rear-ended, the force of the head push the headrest back.

If channels are not present, the legs of the might poke thru the possibly injuring the occupant. I the whole headrest-seatback setup, and it in my wagon. Replacing the upholstery is a but it#8217;s doable.

While in I saw a different kind of rear for wagons: it#8217;s the semi-hard material resembles that of the rear headrests, but it runs the width of the car, so it#8217;s enough for the three rear and attaches to the dog-gate or an frame in of the dog-gate.

1980 and earlier cars equipped with an had a sliding switch to engage device, and no relay. The system did a 4th gear sensor, so if one shifts out of the OD disengages. But if one shifts back 4th without sliding the switch then the OD wants to engage as as the shifter is in 4th. To avoid problem, the latter setup a relay and a pushbutton on the shifter. setup can be retrofitted to earlier

The relay turns off the OD once the is moved from 4th, and not engage it again until the is pushed again.

I highly getting all the wiring from the along with the relay and knob, as it will make the job a lot A wiring diagram of both is also useful, as for example the goes through the 4th gear and the shiftknob switch in the early while both just a signal in the later setup 4th gear switch sends a signal).

If the knob itself is it won#8217;t fit tightly on the stick. A knob is the solution. I think earlier and later sticks are as the location of the slot was changed the rear to the side, but this allows the installation of the newer

5. INSTRUMENTATION

It is pretty easy to add a to any 240, whether it has the older or the newer (81-) dash. both types, the instrument has to be removed to add one. The older dash has a blank panel with three screws in of the tach. Remove this and the tach in place.

It will to two connectors that supply and ground. The center connector have to wired to the coil, or to the signal wire going to the pump relay (white-red

With the newer style the clock has to be removed, and the tach in its place. There is also a that plugs the hole the clock�s adjusting knob out. #8217;81 and newer should also have a wire (apparently this is gray for cars with the ignition) dangling somewhere the instrument panel that the coil signal, so no wiring is needed.

The cars with the dash originally equipped a tach had a small (52 mm, 2-1/16 clock in place of one of the blank to the right of the instrument panel. clock is powered and lighted by a loom attached to the back of the However, these small seem to be less durable the big ones: some of them work, others stop certain winter temperatures.

As a a 52-mm tach that to the right of the instrument panel was an for cars with the large but these are quite rare.

It is quite easy to add a voltmeter or any 2-inch (52mm) instrument to the and newer cars with the dash, as they can be mounted in of the two blank panels to the left of the panel. One common setup be to have a large tach in the IP, and a and a voltmeter in place of the two blank The voltmeter can get the voltage for the lighting the clock, but the measured voltage come from the fusepanel.

Appropriate trim for the 2-inch is needed, as well as 3 rubber to hold each gauge

Voltmeters, oil pressure and oil temperature in the 2-inch size can be found in in some VW#8217;s, Porsches, and (of course, the pressure and temp are needed). To add more gauges, a panel from a 240 Turbo can be (this takes up the upper location, usually occupied by a area in the pre-86 cars). In the this holds a voltmeter, oil gauge and a vacuum (boost)

The appropriate vacuum gauge for a cars was available as an option, a fuel-economy gauge.

Eric page has a list with of the various accessory gauges offered.

So there are a total of slots for extra gauges in a 240, unless one has a radio up To fill in all the five, such as ambient temperature gauge or sensor output can be added. I seen some cars a total of 7 or 8 gauges, the additional residing on a pod above the dash.

It is to add extra instruments to 240#8242;s the earlier dash. I#8217;ve pods mounted on the two sides of the column, and that certainly fine. There was also an pod that could be mounted on the top of the but I have never actually one.

I have seen of a #8217;75 240 with three mounted into the dash, on the above the clock. I drilled a whole there and mounted a back before I converted my 245 to the type dash. It is not easy, as about 1 inch of foam, is some metal backing not easy to cut away. If the dash is out of the than the metal backing can be cut away with pliers.

it is better if one uses the shallower gauges than the deeper ones.

6. MISC. ENHANCEMENTS AND

This is a pretty simple You need to swap the rotor and the and then bleed the system, and it! This is also a good to flush all the old fluid out of the system and to the brakehoses, if needed. IPD sells nice braided ones for $120/set. Fluid replacement is an missed maintenance procedure.

fluid absorbs water the brake system is not a closed which can corrode calipers and parts. The water also at a lower temperature, and if it does, the will loose most of effectiveness.

The wires to the alternator and oil are normally routed under the of the engine where they are to heat, oil from leaking and road debris if the belly pan is Add to this the flaky wire found on some 240s, and you get instrument lights that work or light up like a tree under certain

The fix is relatively easy. The wires for the alternator light and the oil pressure go into a gray connector the intake manifold on the firewall. connectors can be opened up, and the desired removed.

Remove the wires for the two in question, and cut the last two inches Solder these to two new wires shrink tubing also and put them back in the connector. the new wires along the firewall and along the right inner On my car I routed them to the appropriate from under the coolant tank. It is also a good to put the wires in the some plastic tubing one can buy at some auto

These are also used on some Japanese and American so a junkyard might also be a

Some find it helpful to a filter in the low pressure return from the steering rack. helps reduce wear metal being suspended in the #8211; seems like a idea with many 240#8242;s needing a steering IPD sells these filters for steering and auto … but I hear that they can be found in some general parts stores.

Flushing the of the radiator and AC Condensor annually is a idea to get dirt, bugs, out of it to help with the cooling Just use a garden hose and first from the back of the Then loosen the top radiator and move the radiator back a bit so you can out the debris between the radiator and the

Last, remove the grille and the front side of the condenser.

A electric fan in front of the AC condenser when the car is in city traffic. The 240 Turbos and a few other high-end had these fans from the so it is possible to pick them up at a

Keep the cowl vent in front of the windshield clear of and make certain the rocker front entrance near the of the front fenders stays of leaves and such. Often the into the cowl vent its way into the rocker panels them to rot from the inside tannic acid in the leaves a number onthe rockers! You can get the rocker panels from the of the car

if you pull the sill covers and the carpet is pulled back and plastic plugs. If you remove you can insert a garden hose to try and out any larger debris in the rocker at the front. Regular inspection of the and rocker panel drain is something that is also

Annual inspection of the undercoating on the and underside of the car is important. You can remove any undercoating and reapply it if there is no

The transmission fluid in automatic needs to be replaced regularly. says that manual cars are #8220;filled for life#8221;. But just how long this is supposed to be? With many of our having over 200-300 miles, replacing the … in a manual transmission is hardly a bad Volvo recommends F-type but I would go with Redline MTL transmission lubricant).

Many experienced smoother shifting and overdrive operation with stuff. It is not cheap at about $8 per but you only need to buy 3 quarts

All the 240#8242;s sold in the US were injected. From about all cars incorporated an oxygen in this system to optimize the mixture based on the oxygen of the exhaust gases.

Cars about #8217;78 till at #8217;85, if not later, were with a simple mechanical that was connected to the odometer, and it reached a preset number of (15k, 30k?) it triggered the Lambda-Sond light, to remind the to have the sensor checked and replaced. Nowadays we know they didn#8217;t know then: oxygen sensors a lot more than 30k miles in a tuned engine.

To reset the just find the counter usually attached somewhere the dash below the instrument If you have a hard time it, just follow the second emanating from the speedo, and lead you to it. There is a button on module that will the light. However, my favorite is to unplug and chuck the whole instead of resetting it every 30k This will reduce the on the already feeble odometer

To remove the unit, the cable has to be at the back of the speedo, and the wires to the instrument cluster have to be Don#8217;t forget to check oxygen sensor, though, if you increased consumption, rough or fail an emission test!

The trailing arm bushings on the 240#8242;s are is pressed into two loops are welded to the rear axle. bushing r/r has to be done in place. has a special tool for this

I borrowed one from a friend and some diagrams of it in case wants to machine one of these

Someone figured out how to make the from common materials too many specialized tools, and has a great page of it:

As far as changing bushings, I#8217;d recommend the area with penetrant for a few before the procedure. Also, the new have a taper on one end, sure to fit that into the first. Last, don#8217;t to put a spacer between the two loops or be bent by the bushing removal.

is the enemy of performance and economy. the weight of your car will you accelerate better, corner and will improve your economy. Emptying the trunk of junk is the first step drivers should take minimizing weight.

This comes down to a compromise, as basic tools and spare should always be in the car.

older 240#8242;s in the US have air conditioning systems. Owners of cars should decide if the is ever going to be repaired. If the system can be removed. From the hood, the compressor, the drier, and the can be removed, along with all the hoses. Fanatics can dig under the to remove the evaporator, too.

To the compressor on cars equipped power steering, a different is needed to secure the PS pump to the The brackets on the pump (including the bolted to the pump) and the plate them to the block are totally from the AC setup, so make you get everything from the donor

The large aluminum bumpers bumpers) on the earlier cars contribute considerably to weight. For driving I elected to keep due to their excellent strength, but for I was planning on removing my GT#8217;s and just bolting up the plastic from the later cars in place. Anthony Hyde Australia has a great page on bumpers. Anthony has a seriously 244 Turbo, described on his specifications .

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