Electrical systems on outboard boat motors

17 Dec 2014 | Author: | Comments Off on Electrical systems on outboard boat motors
Mercury Mariner

The electrical system of a boat can from being fairly all the way to an electricians nightmare depending on the of boat. This can be very to many people when an electrical system. One thing to though, is that most pretty much stick to a when it comes to electrical design.

If you have purchased a boat from someone thought they were an wiz, only to totally any way of tracing a problem due to using color wire they scrounge up to replace or add an accessory, I have no way to help you, but feel for you because I have run that problem so many I felt like locking the and tacking a for sale sign on the door. In this section we look at some basic diagrams and list some of the coded standards that are on almost every boat We will look at some of the components on inboard/outboard motors and some of the other boat and how to troubleshoot problems with

Motor Components

Other the ignition components which are in the ignition components section, are a few electrical items on an outboard that can cause problems.

first look at the marine

Why bother using a more marine type battery an automotive type will to start my motor? Wrong!

the rich can afford cheap batteries for use in a boat.

To a degree the question is true, but there are major differences in automotive and marine batteries. Actually, a battery would probably a better application than an type battery in your car or Marine batteries are designed more cranking power, reserve power, and a deep duty that will you with at least 150 deep cycles if properly maintained.

Outboard motors DO NOT always a full charge in your The amp output of an outboard stator does not output enough to keep the battery at full like an inboard/outboard does. charge your battery outings to make sure battery stays in good

People kill batteries than old age due to improper charging and Recharge battery as soon as after discharge. Never a battery to sit for long periods in a run state.

Use an automatic charger with 10 to 20 amp output to charge batteries, and never overcharge.

The other thing to say about a is keeping the cable connections and free of corrosion. If you disconnect battery cables, make to NEVER cross cables to the post. Connecting your backwards can instantly pop the rectifier in the system.

Starter and Starter Solenoid

Mercury Mariner

A can be one of the most used and abused on the marine engine. Besides under constant … of and corrosion, a starter can undergo strain, especially if something is the motor from starting. For if the motor has a no fire condition, and a continually cranks and cranks the starter in hopes that in the cranking will fix the no fire the starter is bound to practically itself up from the abuse.

If motor does not fire up a few seconds of cranking it with the stop and find out whats A motor in proper adjustment and condition internally should take but just a few revolutions to and run. Starter problems can from just plain worn out, to corroded to being burned up inside.

So you go to the motor and all you get is a click sound out of the What could be wrong? make sure your is in good condition, that is no corrosion on terminals, and that are TIGHT!

A loose cable connection can you unwarranted expense on replacement and batteries that were bad in the first place. If you ever get in the starter(submersed), replace it right and there. It will probably work ok for a while, but sooner or its history and you’ll be stuck on the guaranteed! The easiest way to tell if the or solenoid is bad is simply to test with a voltmeter.

If you only get a attach negative lead of to ground, and the positive lead to the stripe wire on the solenoid. Try to motor. Does the voltmeter a full 12 volts at the yellow/red wire? If so, replace solenoid and as a pair.

If not, the problem is not the Trace Yellow/red stripe to key switch to make sure is 12 volts to the switch connections.

Oil Injection

On outboards that oil injection, there are a few electrical that all work together to the mixing and monitoring of oil/fuel operation. These components can greatly in the way the operate from one brand to the other. Most have 3 common elements.

An oil is usually located inside the and can contain anywhere from 1 /12 to 3 gallons of oil, depending on the of the outboard. The oil tank also a sensor which monitors the oil of the tank. If the oil level reaches a low the electronics of the oil injection system send a signal to the warning which in turn, notifies you of the The warning horn usually off with intermitant beeps, and you have approx.

45 minutes time of oil in reserve. DO NOT ignore beep, as running out of oil means … of the powerhead.

The second component of the oil injection is the pump. Some models electronic control of oil mixture, and models use a mechanical application. The application is much more although the electronic type improved in dependability over the few years.

To troubleshoot an electronic pump, please refer to repair manual.

Lastly, the oil module is the brain of the system. tell the module what is on, and the module acts accordingly to the Todays oil injection systems alert you when something is and some even shut motor operation to protect severe damage.

Again, refer to your repair to troubleshoot your specific

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