1989 Audi 100 Quattro 2.4 Turbo Diesel | German Cars For Sale Blog

14 Dec 2014 | Author: | Comments Off on 1989 Audi 100 Quattro 2.4 Turbo Diesel | German Cars For Sale Blog
Audi 100

1989 Audi 100 Quattro 2.4 Diesel

If this doesn#8217;t your interest in a diesel, not will! The Audi 100 Quattro is not a car we often feature at GCFSB. generations of 100 quattro #8211; C3 and C4 fall squarely in the shadow of more powerful big brothers.

In the of the C4, the S4 quattro stole all of the limelight the relatively unremembered 2.8 V6 powered 100 (which would be renamed the A6 in 1995), while the C3 100 quattro was for only a very short #8211; like the turbocharged 200 and 200 20V While not many opted for the powerful 2.3 10V motor, they#8217;re as solid workhorses of cars, many still hitting stride with 250,000 miles. Like old Benzs, cars were strong, and well built #8211; if quite slow. Today#8217;s has resolved some of the #8220;slow#8221; in a unique way; this quattro has received a 2.4 inline 5 diesel transplant:

CLICK FOR 1989 Audi 100 Quattro Diesel on eBay

Purchase of new necessitates sale:

1989 100 Quattro converted to turbo

98,296 miles on chassis, miles on engine. (Engine done at 79,360 miles on

Link to build thread on http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=25252.0

Link to build on MotorGeek: http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6#038;t=45746

YouTube http://youtu.be/XVP1p0f2Oik

Link to vehicle on AudiWorld: http://www.AudiWorld.com – – Model Guide 100 – 1989 Audi 100

economy – I drive mostly town, and always get better 30 MPG. On a road trip between 55 and 65, it gets about 35

As far as power, it does surprisingly It’s much quicker it was in gas form. There’s always power to be had. I would a free-flow exhaust system for

Next would be a bigger

2.4 liter (2370cc) diesel from Canadian Eurovan 79.5 mm bore, 95.5 mm 22.5:1 compression ratio. engine also features oil under the pistons.

This is an injected diesel (IDI) not a direct injected (TDI) In general, it revs higher, and is a quieter than a TDI engine.

It 100% mechanical fuel and is extremely reliable. Apart the starter and the glow plugs, it requires 1 wire to run, and for the fuel cutoff solenoid to the injection pump.

It is licensed and as a “Diesel”, and thus shouldn’t be any getting it registered in your In the state/county where I live, don’t require emissions

I run Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel and have changed the oil and filter 5000 miles.

It is always warmed up. It starts in the cold especially when the block is plugged in.

The gear ratios ideal, but I have run it up to 80 MPH no problem. I run it at 55 MPH or less.

It runs about 12 PSI of just casually rowing the gears. It will peak at 15 PSI when floored. When down the road at a steady 55 it runs about 4 PSI.

It very little. Basically the time you can see it, is if you floor it while the is bogged down. There’s a example of it in the YouTube video.

New spare parts – Brake reservoir, clutch master clutch slave cylinder, cross-drilled rotors for front (2 sets), Hawk pads stainless steel brake (front), brake caliper kits (front and rear) 034 short shift kit, VDO and wiring kit, tail (Hella), oil drain plugs and rear trunk lid “turbo” and “D” badges from Europe.

I also include a set of Bentley manuals.

The Engine:

When remanufactures an engine, they the good useable parts, and the rest with new. particular engine has a brand new among other things. The was remanufactured to new specifications and new swirl were installed.

The number of new on this car is staggering. Just a yet incomplete rundown:

Pistons –

Oil pump – Genuine

Starter – Genuine

Camshaft – Genuine

(Hydraulic) – Genuine

Valves –

Front crankshaft sprocket –

Camshaft front sprocket –

Tensioner pulley – Genuine

and lower timing belt – Genuine

Thermostat – OEM

Fuel – 155 bar – Bosch

Fuel injection – Genuine

Turbo oil lines – made by 034 Motorsport

Valve oil separator/breather – Genuine

Glow – Bosch

Glow plug – Genuine

Block heater – (Genuine)

All engine gaskets, fasteners, and hose clamps –

Again, these are just of the new parts. All of the other parts refurbished to “as new” condition:

The already very low mile injection pump was rebuilt to Pump” specifications by Performance in Canada (a.k.a. #8220;Giles#8221;). It is to be able to supply enough and proper timing for 250 HP, in case you to turn the wick up that

Turbo professionally rebuilt

manifold – glass beaded, matched and painted

Exhaust – cleaned, no cracks

Aluminum oil pan Audi 20 valve 3B/7A

Pyrometer thermocouple already in the turbo, just needs to be to the gauge.

Body stuff:

– Hella

Floor mats –

Hood struts – Genuine

knob – Genuine

Audi 100

All of the proper tools were used in the of this engine, including a calibrated torque wrench.

I a different transmission with better gear ratios. doing so, I replaced all of the external I also replaced the transmission with new.

I purchased the and tires new from the Tire a few years ago. The wheels are ASA in excellent condition with the of a little bit of pitting from the on the machined lip. They never been “curbed”. The are Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 and are in ok condition, except for the fronts wouldn’t pass Utah inspection because of excessive on the insides. (Everything else the safety inspection just though.)

Electric vacuum runs the HVAC controls and differential lock.

Alpine unit with full control – Actually shows the cover and such on the display. It not play CDs.

Infinity front dash

Due to its thermostatically controlled oil cooler, the stays cool, even in hot Yet, it produces plenty of in the winter.

The paint and body is in good condition with the of a couple of small dings, and appears to be some oxidation on the roof and trunk lid. I’m a good buffing would care of it.

It’s in good but it has some small issues:

The in the rear is starting to sag. is a very common occurrence on cars. It just started a of months ago.

Slight drain – Can be left over the just fine, but after than about 4 days, the will be too weak to start the

The tensioning rod for the alternator belt is – This causes the alternator to a little under load. It easily be welded or replaced

is a small leak around the to manifold coupling that is oil to weep out and land on the inside fender and firewall.

It needs a new boot – These are no longer from Audi, but I have the special thread, special sewing machine needle, and the old one to use for and as a template to make a new one.

The air works, but needs a recharge. The air out of the vents is only slightly than the ambient air. For now the has been removed to conserve

The transmission doesn’t shift as into 2nd gear as it should. I it’s because of the Motul oil I put in there. I think original transmission oil should be put back in.

The engine oil pressure indicator on. I think it’s either I have it wired wrong, or the sender in installed. The actual oil gauge works fine, and the always has plenty of oil pressure.

The passenger-side power window reliably roll up. It eventually but only after clicking the a bunch of times.

I think the left wheel bearing is a little bit. I can’t for sure, but it seems like is a little bit of noise coming that area when down to stop.

The tachometer work. This could be adapted to work by running the from an alternator with a “W” up to the instrument cluster. Behind the is a switch for “Petrol or Diesel”, I assume has something to do with the tachometer gets its input

Slight power steering leak. I think it’s near the bottom of the pump, and down onto the block. The steering rack itself is no leaks.

Small oil leak the front of the engine somewhere. very slow, and has never affected the oil levels in the engine. It be coming from the lower oil line since I have a drip or two there before.

The system needs a flexible between the downpipe and the rest of the Romping on the throttle can cause joint to come apart.

control is not operational.

All of these have been on my “To Do” list, but I no have the time to work on it.

Everything else works (e.g. ABS, rear lock, CV joints, sunroof, lights, etc.)

Don’t buy because you’re looking for a diesel car to drive, or because you to run Veggie oil in it. Buy it because you’re for a reliable, simple, safe, and 80’s vintage Audi

Cool, cool, cool. not the most stylish Audi out but this one is sure unique. you#8217;ll fly under the radar, but do so for a long time as this is one of the mile Audi 100 quattros seen for sale in a long and the addition of the turbo diesel longevity to be measured in decades, not If there is one thing not to like, the wheels; I#8217;d prefer to opt for smaller and a touch more such as these period-correct and rare Rials:

Of course, cars originally came 15#215;6 BBSs that can be sourced, so there#8217;s that as well. The relative simplicity of car is what makes it appealing; I that it#8217;s cloth rather than leather. It be really interesting to see where one ends up; value is tough to

Normally a 100 Quattro would a tough time even a few thousand dollars, but this is the best one I remember seeing and the of the turbo diesel unit it up another notch. Will it (in price, at least) its 200 20V brethren? If a 100 Quattro that could do it, just may be it.

Audi 100
Audi 100
Audi 100
Audi 100
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